[Food:2/5]

We strolled off Columbus Avenue and into Vietnam. Inside Bar Bao (a remake of UWS oldie, Rain), weathered floorboards look like they’ve traveled from the colonial era. The curvy bar seductively beckons. Certain that someone, or something, worth seeing is in the shadows, you squint at the plush booths. The dimly lit interior is fit to be a movie-set.

Once you’re seated, the appealing menu will help you overcome the urge to rubberneck. Vietnamese cuisine, especially its spices and flavors, is enticing and delicious (and yes, I’ve spent time in Vietnam). At Bar Bao, the menu lures you in and charms you with these ideals. Then the food arrives, snapping you back to reality – you’re at mediocre NYC restaurant with poor service.

Baby Lamb Lollipops, the first of many dishes described incorrectly by our server (and the menu), were merely individual lamp chops. Expecting something more creative, we were disenchanted by their mundane preparation.

While the Daikon Duck Hash cleverly uses soy-drenched cubes of daikon instead of potatoes, the duck bacon (whose presence is assured by the menu) is imperceptible. By charging $12 for a small and starch-centric dish, Bao might be more villainous than clever.

Sizzling Cuttlefish, dense but not chewy, was charred and spiced. It was the night’s winner.

While credit is due for the ingenuity of Black Cod glazed with bean curd, the dish fell flat on the taste buds.

Chayote, which our server ineptly described as “cooked carrots,” was more like cucumber. Matchsticks of the over-brined green vegetable, which Wikipedia later confirmed is part of the gourd family (along with cucumber), huddled around Smoked Tofu. It was more odd than good.

The Sticky Rice, intentioned to be a sweet-meets-salt concoction, was more salt-meets-saltier. I couldn’t muster a second bite. Pieces of Chinese sausage (another ingredient assured by the menu), were few and far between.

Our server received his third strike for his incompetent description of the dessert. The dessert itself, a bizarre melange of chocolate and candy, went down swinging.

Admittedly, each dish at Bar Bao had a distinct flavor, but their individual personalities failed to impress. Unfortunately for Bar Bao, looks aren’t everything.

Bar Bao

100 West 82nd Street

New York, NY 10024

212.501.0776

[Food:4/5]

Delectable pan-asian food.
Bold flavors.
Cheap prices.
Friendly service.

Those four sentences explain why I have a huge crush on Mooncake Foods in SoHo. My love affair with this quirky, diner-like eatery started with lunch. Since then I’ve returned countless times, for lunch and dinner. Sometimes it’s just my husband and I; sometimes we go with friends. Over Christmas we were a party of nine family members. Regardless of meal or company, everyone leaves smitten with Mooncake’s cozy feel and fabulous food.

Most of you probably haven’t heard of it, and I’ve spent a fair amount of time deciding whether or not to share it with you. But it’s the New Year and I’m feeling generous. Consider this review a belated holiday present.

Chicken wings, glazed with honey and soy, get the browning treatment under the broiler. Make sure you get the piquant, jalapeno dipping sauce.

Oversized mussels are baked with sambal mayo.

Dare I tell you these delicious starters are just $4.50? The retro prices match the décor.

A handful of menu sections offer heavier fare: sandwiches, salads, wonton soups, a section simply called “plates”, and daily dinner specials. Dinner specials and a killer dish of Grilled Prawns and Glass Noodles will run you $16. Everything else tops out at $8.80. Yes, it’s almost obscene.

This is where one might begin to worry about the ingredients and the portion sizes. They’ve got to cut a corner somewhere, right? Wrong. Mooncake’s meats and fish are fresh. Their vegetables are bright and crispy. Their portions are generous (there’s even a good chance you’ll have leftovers).

The steak sandwich (“add a buck for cheese”) is laden with juicy bites of beef and vibrant peppers.

Spicy Hoisin Fish Tacos are the make-your-own variety. A filet of moist white fish is grilled on a banana leaf and served with hoisin sauce, flour tortillas, and cucumber slivers.

The Miso-Glazed Salmon has more flavor than at restaurants who charge triple for a smaller portion.

The salads are served in the deepest of bowls; a bottomless pit of green leaves and innovative dressings. The Warm Portobello Caesar with salmon and tofu dressing is my personal favorite.

The only dishes I’ve found disappointing are from the wonton soup category. It’s the only place where Mooncake’s healthy fare backfires. The MSG is missing, and to me, so is the flavor.

The menu is lengthy. The flavors are abundant. I’m confident it’s hard to mis-order at this SoHo gem. You too, will be over the moon.

Mooncake Foods

Cash Only

28 Watts Street

New York, NY 10013

212.219.8888

ps. There’s also a Chelsea location.

[Food:3.5/5]

During the four years my husband and I lived in Seattle, we had under a dozen visitors; that’s one visitor every four months. Here in New York City, we’ve had too many to count. They come to the Big Apples in droves.

Rest assured, not every visitor stays with us. But regardless of where they lay their sightseeing eyes or business minds to rest, there is usually at least one night when we’re in charge of satiating their palates.

Selecting and recommending New York City restaurants is an art form. The options are endless and each restaurant has distinct personality traits. There’s the cuisine, the cost, and the location – just to name a few.

I take this work seriously and spend a lot of time matching up specific culinary tastes and desires to a fitting restaurant. Sometimes I push people in a direction that they might not have picked on their own. I love it when people simply say, “surprise me”. It’s not unlike a dating service.

I know, I know. Where I am going with all of this? I’m going to Raoul’s.

Raoul’s has been on Prince Street in SoHo since the 1970s. That’s thirty years before SoHo hit the primetime. It was before Chanel and Prada took up residence. Before the rents and hotel rates skyrocketed. Before other restaurants arrived because it was trendy.

To know this history is to fully appreciate the genuine feel that Raoul’s exudes both through its food and atmosphere. Sure, models and businessmen have replaced starving artists, but that just shows how Raoul’s has grown with the neighborhood. It’s one of those restaurants that has stayed relevant and grounded, its roots deeply embedded.

Raoul’s has become one of our go-tos when we want to take NYC visitors somewhere to eat in our neighborhood. It’s got all the right ingredients to make a fun and delicious evening.

Raoul’s is unpretentious, old-school, but with just a dash of cool and newness. Take for instance, the Butternut Risotto appetizer with escargot and matsutake ragout. Orange squash and creamy rice provide the canvas for dark and chewy snails. It’s not passé; it’s almost edgy. It’s a standout dish, but Raoul’s doesn’t make a fuss about it.

Raoul’s bistro French is accessible to the masses, but flavorful enough for more discerning taste buds. Their self-touted specialty is the Steak Au Poivre entrée and it deserves its reputation. The peppercorn to meat ratio lets you enjoy the tender beef with just the right amount of kick. They fry their fries in duck fat.

Spindly frissee and tart cornichons are ideal tag-alongs for Steak Tartare.

I’ve also enjoyed almost every fish on the menu – Scallops, Wild Striped Bass, and most recently, the Bronzini. Each one is served with dueling palate pleasers of texture and taste that enhance, but never overwhelm. Their preparations are so right it’s easy to take them for granted.

It’s only when Raoul’s drifts from its center, away from its core, that things get thrown off balance.

A too prim presentation of pears with blue cheese and walnut dressing strayed from bistro fare into finicky-land.

The Wagyu Shortrib, a dish that sounded too tremendous to pass up, was missing depth of flavor and wagyu’s signature melt-in-your mouth texture.

But those dishes are two of the exceptions. Raoul’s regularly hits the mark, dish after dish. Raoul’s isn’t groundbreaking; its success rises from a solid identity that, for decades, many restaurants have unsuccessfully tried to create.

Raoul’s

http://www.raouls.com

180 Prince Street

New York, NY 10012

212.966.3518

[Food:3/5]

For the last few months I have been anxiously awaiting the much-delayed opening of 10 Downing. Like many others, I was eager for Jason Neroni’s food, but I was also excited for sentimental reasons.

My great aunt used to live in the 10 Downing apartment building and I remember countless Sunday visits to her studio apartment. Back then, parking spots on Sixth Avenue were readily available and Da Silvano was a low-key Italian restaurant across the street.

She’d be ninety now, and if she had dined with us at 10 Downing last week, conversation would have been sparse; raised voices and good hearing were requirements for any exchange of dialogue. It was louder than Babbo when the rock music blares; it was louder than the bar I was at on Friday night. The difference at 10 Downing is that the obscene decibel level wasn’t intentional; they have sound engineers addressing the issue.

The menu offers jazzed up comfort dishes as well as inventive spins on classic preparations, like Ocean Trout Tartar and Bison Hangar Steak. The prices are reasonable; or at least reasonable by New York standards. Spice, bright color, and strong flavors were present in every dish. They’re the verve that will set the dishes at 10 Downing apart from the Cods, Arctic Chars, Beets, and Brussels Sprouts that these days, are as prevalent in NYC as taxis.

To start, vibrant red pepper relish added zest to a crock of Baked Sheep Cheese.

Braised Beets were dressed-up with tangy grapefruit and pungent blue cheese. The outfit looked great, but the flavors proved overpowering for the delicate and demure vegetable. Nevertheless, I welcomed a rendition that didn’t include sweetly glazed nuts or goat cheese.

For the Duck Meatball Cassoulet, four plump and moist spheres of ground duck rest atop spiced flageolet beans. Harold Dieterle better watch out, there’s a new duck meatball in the West Village.

A fan of this website recently accused me of ordering a lot of Arctic Char. Guilty as charged; 10 Downing was no exception. In Neroni’s version, hunks of smokey bacon hang on the sweet and pink fish like anchors. I loved the idea, but I liked the Arctic Char at Park Avenue Autumn better.

A scoop of red pepper romesco accompanied the salsa verde drizzled Bison Hanger Steak. The meat was earthier than its more common brethren and the romesco, a piquant treat.

The Colorado Lamp Chops, with herbs and marinated feta, was the tamest dish at our table. There wasn’t a ton of spice or color, but it did come with a fatty, melt-in-your-mouth piece of lamb belly.

We were impressed that the Chocolate Souffle to-order would only require 10-15 minutes to bake. What type of ovens did they have back there? Apparently the same one I have at home – the dessert was more chocolate liquid than soufflé. We still licked the ramekin clean.

I have a feeling that even if they can’t fix the noise problem, 10 Downing is going to be a popular addition to the already restaurant-crowded West Village. As for my great aunt, she wouldn’t recognize the place.

10 Downing

http://www.10downingnyc.com

10 Downing Street

New York, NY 10014

212.255.0300

Yep, you guessed it; I’m in Sin City. For some reason or another I find myself here once a year and each visit I’m blown away by the gluttony that permeates from the shining marble and glistening fountains. The good news is that in a city where excess prevails and bigger means better, big name chefs are part of the patchwork (er, make that granite tiles). Batali, Burke, Puck, Rubuchon, Lagasse. Oh, and Keller? Yep, he’s here too.

We’ve already eaten dinner at Bouchon and CUT and over the next two nights we’ll dine at Nobu and B&B Bistro. Without Vegas, we’d have to hop planes between Los Angeles, Manhattan, and Yountville to eat at the same set of restaurants. But here, the greatest distance you might have to travel is a five-minute cab ride. Heck, it’s highly possible you won’t even have to leave your hotel. No fresh air required.

Though the intimacy and charm of Thomas Keller’s Yountville Bouchon gets lost between the tabletops and the monstrously high ceiling, our dinner was very, very good. The Brandade beignets were creative, the pan-fried trout was light and flavorful, and the steamed mussels were some of the best I’ve had in recent memory.

Wolfgang Puck has always catered to the stars and CUT, his shiny steakhouse, looks very much at home in the Vegas landscape. We splurged on the Tasting of Sirloin, a sampling of Japanese Wagyu, American Kobe, and USDA Prime Dry Aged beef. We’d never had true Wagyu before and though its richness was mind blowing, the Kobe was our favorite. Creamed spinach with fried egg and a date cake for dessert were the other highlights.

Steve Wynn once said, “Las Vegas is sort of like how God would do it if he had money.” If that’s true, God would also be a foodie.

[Food:2/5]

For those of you who are regular readers of Cleaned My Plate, you’ve probably noticed a theme that runs through many of my dinner reviews: cost. I feel very fortunate to be able to dine in NYC without a corporate expense account or newspaper paying for my dinner tabs. (At press time, Cleaned My Plate had not yet been picked up for syndication.) But that’s one of the main reasons why cost always factors into how I feel about the food a restaurant serves and the experience it provides. I’m always asking myself, “Was it worth it?”

With a recession looming over us like a rain cloud, it was time to put my money where my mouth is and try one of the restaurants courting the penny pincher. Enter Dennis Foy’s $27 two-course prix fixe.

Any review I’ve read of Dennis Foy has mentioned that it’s one of TriBeCa’s best-kept secrets. With only three tables of diners in the restaurant, it might not be just a well-kept secret, but perhaps, a dying one. It’s entirely possible that the new prix fixe menu is meant to woo new diners, not to necessarily keep old ones.

After looking around at the sparsely populated dining room, my friend leaned into the table and whispered with a smile, “We better have some really good service!” It was certainly gracious, and fairly professional, but I wouldn’t put it in the “really good” category.

Before Dennis Foy rolled out its budget-conscious prix fixe, appetizers ranged from $8-$14 and entrees from $22-$28. Paying $27 for a choice of appetizer and entrée from the original menu was clearly a bargain for my wallet. As it turned out, my taste buds paid the price.

The appetizer described as a Warm Goat Cheese Tart was in fact, served cold. Foy’s version cleverly substitutes robust tomato confit for dough, but that wasn’t enough to rescue the dish. Poor quality cheese and a sprinkling of store bought breadcrumbs (yes, I’m talking about the kind that comes in a blue canister) were shameful.

While none of our other dishes were as egregiously dishonorable as the tart, they were mundane at best. The Day Boat Scallops and Seared Red Snapper were reminiscent of meals I’ve made in my own kitchen, their moderate success never deserving of repetition. In short, fine but forgettable.

The homemade pastas were the only displays of culinary accomplishment, though their preparations did nothing to bolster their merit. Gnocchi were firm, yet pillow-like. They were primed for simple goodness, but were instead doused in flavorless garlic and sage dressing.

The Classic Veal Bolognese made with ribbons of handmade fettuccini deserved credit for its sauce-to-pasta ratio, but for a dish that’s meant to be hearty, it was devoid of robustness. Parmesan cheese wasn’t offered with the pasta; not quite shameful, but far from acceptable.

I had never eaten at Dennis Foy before the $27 prix fixe was introduced and I cannot compare the quality of the two menus. On this particular evening, we were lured by the promise of fine dining at a reduced cost. In the end, we got what we paid for.

Dennis Foy

http://www.dennisfoynyc.com

313 Church Street

New York, NY 10013

212.625.1007

[Food:3.5/5]

Violet drapes, pulled back in dramatic fashion, mark the entrance to Picholine’s main dining room. On the other side of these amethyst gates, wall sconces and chandeliers illuminate a soothing palate of mauve and white. The effect is more staid than elegant.

No less than four servers stood guard as the six of us took our seats in the quiet restaurant. The stage was set for a typical evening of uptown fine dining and it played out in my head as I lay the white linen napkin across my lap. Act One would include excellent but stuffy service. Act Two would highlight solidly prepared food with muted attempts at flair. A few hours, a few amuse bouches, and a few courses later, my imaginary Playbill had been ripped to shreds; its synopsis of the evening inaccurate.

Terrance Brennan, Picholine’s Chef-Proprietor, offers inventive twists on French-Mediterranean cuisine. Diners select their $92, three-course meal from a menu divided into Preludes, Day Boats, The Land, and Desserts. An extraordinary cheese selection and tasting menus are also available.

Prelude creations such as Sea Urchin Panna Cotta, Tuna Cru “Napoleon,” Salt Cod Cloud and “Ham and Eggs” highlight Brennan’s originality. Their complex tastes and textures demonstrate his skill.

The Panna Cotta, a silky pyramid of lobster broth and sea urchin, rests in an ocean consommé and is topped with caviar. It’s accompanied by the most delicate of seaweed dusted potato wafers. Crisp, smooth, salt – it’s all there.

The Salt Cod Cloud floats to the table in a glass filled with brandade-like cod, potatoes and smoked trout caviar. It traverses the line between briny parfait and New England Clam Chowder.

At the bottom of the Preludes section, under the words “(upon request),” lies a Simple Salad. Under the Day Boats and The Land sections, the same words prelude a Wagyu Beef Rib-eye. Those seeking refuge from the unusual will be accommodated, but with just enough shame to fill a parentheses.

Picholine embraces game season with an offering of Wild Scottish Game, replete with a different kind of parenthetical warning: “(bird shot may be present)”. Red-legged partridge, pheasant, mallard duck, and grouse were available on the night we dined. I was admittedly disappointed that despite two orders of grouse at our table, there wasn’t a pellet of bird shot to be found.

Crimson strips of grouse were as decadent as liver. Faro, kabocha squash, and game jus completed the rustic dish fit for royalty.

The Heirloom Chicken “kiev” is sous vide, crusted in corn flakes, and fried. Oh, and at its center? Liquefied foie gras. It was ridiculously succulent and flavorful. (And that’s coming from someone who rarely finds anything about chicken ridiculous.) Across the table, lamb was Moroccan spiced, yogurt cooled, and grandly presented in a clay tagine.

Laughs emanated for our high-spirited table (we were celebrating two birthdays that night) and our servers pandered to our mood without ever dropping their professionalism. My mother endearingly and gracefully procures bites from her fellow diners by making her way around the table with fork in hand (yes, she’s actually on foot). At Picholine, every time she would abandon her chair, a new napkin would appear folded by her plate. Jovial banter with the server ensued. My Mom loved every minute.

Brennan is also the Chef-Proprietor of Artisanal Bistro and Wine Bar, if that gives you any indication of the depth and breadth of cheeses offered at Picholine. Looking at the gorgeous selection was almost satisfying enough. The flight that was prepared for us was dairy perfection.

I’ve been disenchanted with restaurant desserts as of late, but the Warm Caramel Apple Brioche gave me renewed hope. It was a miniature loaf of sweet, autumn goodness. The delicate look of the Liquid Chocolate “Tart” proved only a cover for its profound richness. In honor of the birthdays, the table was also gifted two chocolate mousse cakes.

When I posted my review of Veritas a few weeks ago, it was met with strong disagreement from one of my fellow diners from that evening. He thought the meal was excellent. At $92, I thought it was over-priced.

Take your $92 to Picholine, my friend. I will be vindicated, and you will be very, very impressed.

Picholine

http://www.picholinenyc.com

35 West 64th Street

New York, NY 10023

212.724.8585

[Food:4/5]

This past June I was impressed by the whimsical elegance of Park Avenue Summer’s food and atmosphere. (You can read my review here.) The dining experience was so enjoyable that I left looking forward to returning when the seasonally themed restaurant turned to Autumn. A couple of weeks ago, with guests visiting from Seattle, I got my chance.

Maybe it’s the economy, maybe it’s the upcoming election, or maybe Autumn is just more serious in nature than Summer: vacation is over, the sun disappears earlier, our shoes are closed-toe. Park Avenue Autumn captures these changes with a menu and interior design that are less whimsical than its balmier predecessor. And while I loved Summer in all its fancifulness, Autumn felt just right.

Walnut tones and copper have transformed the space into an earthy enclave while Autumn’s harvest has transformed the menu into a mushroom and fruit laden bounty.

Unfortunately, the genial service of Summer was also replaced – with a cooler kind. Perhaps Summer was better for everyone; or maybe the veteran servers are finding the changing of seasons less exciting.

The menu’s dish descriptions remain just as cryptic as they were during Summer – a feature I really enjoy. Ingredients are listed in detail, but the preparation notes are vague. You’re wooed by the elements, but their compilation holds a surprise or two. You’re staking some trust in the chef, but at Park Avenue, that’s a solid bet.

Stacks of Hamachi and Shaved Shitake were equally balanced in taste and physical appearance. Though the distinct flavors of apples and jalapenos were imparted on the dish, they were kept masterfully in check, never disrupting its subtlety.

Plump scallops waded in a sense-awakening Lemongrass broth, creating something delicate and ethereal.

Parcels of duck confit wrapped in cabbage leaves formed savory and sweet parcels.

The sumptuous Venison Chops were the best I’ve had inside New York City limits. The rich meat, sprinkled with eye-popping pomegranate and pumpkin seeds, was the most tantalizing main dish at the table.

Arctic Char (which, after a hard-fought battle, has overthrown salmon’s reign at the top of my favorite fish list) had a crispy skin and medium rare inside. Bitter swiss chard was foiled by maple soy brown butter.

The only mediocre dish was the Kentucky Fried Quail. Though it arrives in a playful silver bucket (a la the Ipswich Clams of Summer), it was lackluster. It’s Autumn – birds should be stuffed, roasted or grilled.

The table devoured sides of Miso Glazed Brussel Sprouts (so good that I’m looking for its recipe equivalent) and Crispy Cauliflower. A cellophane bag containing a melange of mushrooms arrived at the table and was snipped open with much fanfare. But once the aroma had wafted to the next table, all that was left were salty mushrooms.

The desserts were too precious and finicky. They tasted (and looked) like the wrong conclusion to our hearty Autumn-fest. The meal warranted a piece of tart or pie, but instead we were presented with deconstructed and fussy versions of the tried-and-true.

After this visit, Park Avenue Autumn has proven that this restaurant’s consistency and reliability are far from seasonal.

Park Avenue Autumn

http://www.parkavenyc.com

100 East 63rd Street

New York, NY 10021

212.644.1900

Over the past couple of weeks I’ve eaten at a couple of restaurants that I’ve enjoyed immensely in the past. Few things are more gratifying than returning to a restaurant to find that it is just as good as you remember. On the other hand, it is utterly disappointing when your expectations are not met and your memory seems to have failed you.

Sometimes I return for a particular dish; sometimes it’s the vibe. But every time, there was (at least) one extremely positive aspect of my meal that I want to experience again. But, memory can be a funny thing. One has to be careful not to build things up too much, either to yourself, or perhaps to the people you’re dragging along with you.

A recent night at Il Giglio was pleasurable as always. Exceptional service, succulent langoustines, and tableside Zabione all lived up to their memories.

An evening at Shorty’s 32, however, was a let down. The skin on the roasted chicken was not as crispy, nor the meat as tender as my taste buds recalled. The menu didn’t excite me. The music blared too loudly.

This week, the re-runs continue. I’m bringing out-of-town guests to Po and also heading to Park Avenue Autumn. Will Po’s guinea hen be as outrageously good as I remember? Will we enjoy our evening at Park Avenue Autumn as much as we did at the restaurant’s Summer version?

If memory serves, I’ve got nothing to worry about, but my fingers are crossed just in case.

[Food:3/5]

Experimental flavors excite my taste buds.

Exquisitely plated dishes dazzle my eyes.

Scoring an almost-impossible reservation gets my blood pumping.

But it’s the solid neighborhood restaurants that capture my heart and I might just be in love with Jane.

All the right ingredients make Jane a neighborhood go-to. The food is consistent and well prepared. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable. The atmosphere is casual and attractive. The service is congenial and efficient.

One of Jane’s most impressive feats is that every meal they serve – lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch – is executed with equal aplomb. Jane achieves mass appeal without over-extending its menu boundaries. While there are enough choices to keep a wide array of diners happy, just as its name implies, at Jane, things are kept simple.

At lunchtime, the salads and sandwiches reign. The Chopped Market Salad with chicken is my personal favorite, but the Grilled Chicken Salad and Steak Salad are not far behind.

Hefty sandwiches either come with salad or a mound of Jane’s signature rosemary fries. The Jane burger, another Jane classic, is available at both lunch and dinner. While it’s a solid burger, the zesty sauce that graces the burger at The Smith (one of Jane’s sister restaurants) gives the patty a lot more flavor. There are also a few omelet selections that nicely complement the rest of the lunch menu.

If you’re in the mood for something a little fancier, a handful of dishes – Chatham Cod, Hanger Steak, and Risotto – are also available.

You can indulge in a starter either at lunch or dinner, though the list of small plates doubles at night. You can’t go wrong with either the Goat Cheese Flat Bread or the Gnocchi.

For dinner, I have a hard time passing up the Big Pot of Mussels and the rosemary fries that so perfectly soak up their tarragon, Riesling, and mustard broth. You’ll be hard-pressed not to find something that appeals to whatever your whim might be – the Chatham Cod and Steak Frites have expeditiously satiated my own cravings.

For Saturday and Sunday brunch, over a dozen breakfast options are added to Jane’s lunch menu of salads and sandwiches. While there’s Vanilla Bean French Toast and a handful of egg scrambles, the Benedict Johnny is particularly tasty. Poached eggs sit atop maple apple chicken sausage and corn cakes.

Oh, and the best part about brunch (other than the amazing cranberry and nut bread?) . . . if you eat after noon, your meal comes with a complimentary brunch cocktail.

This Jane might be simple, but she’s far from plain.

Jane

www.ctrnyc.com/JANE

100 West Houston Street

New York, NY 10012

212.254.7000

[Food:3/5]

The first time I dined at Veritas I was not only impressed by then-chef Scott Bryan’s food, but also by the value of the obligatory $67 3-course prix fixe menu. By my second visit, the cost of the menu had crossed the $70 mark, but the French cuisine and atmosphere were still well worth it.

Gregory Pugin, Veritas’ newest chef inspired me to return to the restaurant last weekend. Pugin’s resume is notable, including significant time spent under the tutelage of Joel Rubuchon. I was excited to see what, if any, changes had befell Veritas under its newest culinary leader.

Veritas remains convivial, both in décor and service. Warm smiles and knowledgeable staff move proficiently through the cozy atmosphere accentuated by white tablecloths, soft lighting, and tables nestled together.

The restaurants renowned wine cellar (over 3000 bottles!) is also still very much intact. It is perhaps one of the reasons Veritas has remained on the NYC culinary map for a decade. If you’re feeling overwhelmed, the expert sommelier will guide you well.

New chefs are hired for their individual style and Chef Pugin has certainly brought his to Veritas. Pugin’s menu reads more classic French than Scott Bryan’s heartier fare, but there are a couple of eye-catchers and surprises.

The new menu also comes with a new price. The 3-course tasting menu is $90.

Every dish was plated beautifully and meticulously. Painstaking effort and skill were imparted on the smallest of details. The tiniest and most prim potatoes anna I’d ever seen accompanied the squab. Delicately stuffed zucchini blossoms adorned the dover sole. Three perfectly formed and colorful scoops of vegetable purees complemented the Jamon Iberico.

Diminutive beauties and pristine appearances aside, few of the dishes wowed.

An appetizer of glistening paper-thin slices of Langoustine Carpaccio, cut by a trail of ebony caviar, dazzled the eyes more than the taste buds.

The Squab Roti and Dover Sole Provencal entrees tasted stiff, as if their preparations had been taken too seriously, robbing them of any feeling or depth.

In an odd contrast, the Wagyu Filet ($9 supplement) was rubbed so vigorously with peppercorns that the innate and wondrous earthy taste of the special beef was often overpowered.

Proper praise must be paid to the exceptional Frog Leg Salad appetizer that succeeded in every aspect. Succulent lollipops of meat encircled a mountain of chanterelle and haricot vert embellished salad. A sprinkling of fresh almonds and truffle vinaigrette finished off a dish that tasted just as good as it looked.

With the exception of the Chocolate Caramel Torte that was rich and complex in taste, the desserts were consistent with the rest of meal: they were lovely and complicated constructions that failed to excite the palate.

While Pugin’s food has potential, at the high-ticket price of $90, his 3-course menu needs to astound and amaze. Veritas seems to have abandoned its strong roots and heaved itself into a category of NYC restaurants in which it might not be able to compete.

Veritas

www.veritas-nyc.com

43 East 20th Street

New York, NY 10003

212.353.3700

[Food:2.5/5]

Aqua Grill has been at the top of my “to-eat” list. Its all fish and seafood menu, its SoHo veteran status, and its casual coolness were as inviting as the deep blue building itself.

A couple of weeks ago five of us dined at the established fish-haven. Somehow, we all managed to get caught up in the Chef’s Specialties menu, a list of scrumptious sounding cooked fish dishes. But if more of our attention had been directed towards the Raw Bar, we would have left much happier.

Aqua Grill offers over two-dozen types of oysters; it is one of the most impressive raw bar selections in the city. The shellfish hail from points West and East. They’re arranged by price, starting at $1.95 (Blue Point) and ending at $3.15 (Raspberry Point). Little Neck and Cherrystone Clams hide at the bottom of the list despite their lower cost.

Each of us ordered our favorites, a “one of this, one of that, and one of those” type of mish mash. Our server didn’t flinch. He was also very adept at answering questions about the staggeringly (but fabulously) overwhelming list.

When the platter arrived and the first Kumomoto slid from its shell and into my mouth I began to wonder if we shouldn’t have ordered more of the slippery indulgences. Determined to give the gleaming platter all my attention, I put such thoughts from my head. My instincts (though realized too late) turned out to be correct. If there was ever a time I wanted to rewind an order, it was at Aqua Grill.

Aside from the Blowfish Tail Tempura, the appetizers we sampled weren’t bad or great. As the Warm Octopus Salad, Peekytoe Crab Napoleon, and Summer Gazpacho were passed around the table, everyone seemed to have the same reaction: a bite, a thoughtful pause, and then a shoulder shrug.

The Blowfish, on the other hand, was a unique menu item and a delicious one. It was served with a light soy dipping sauce and if you weren’t paying attention (or you over-dipped), you might have missed the fish’s flavor.

When we ordered our main dishes, our server made a large to-do about how each fish would be prepared. The Yellowfin Tuna would be rare. The Atlantic Salmon and the Diver Sea Scallops would be medium-rare. “Was this okay with us?” He asked. And of course it was, that’s exactly how we like it. A tablemate who ordered the Casco Bay Cod chimed in to make sure that his would also be prepared similarly. It was the server’s turn to say “Yes, of course.”

When our entrees finally arrived three out of the five were over-cooked. The tuna was medium. The salmon was medium. The cod was medium.

With the ill-prepared fish at their core, the dishes fell apart. The falafel-crusted salmon could have been a brilliant assembly of textures, but in our version the dusty encasement only accentuated the dry fish. The tuna, a sad gray color, had been robbed of its flavor. As for the cod, while its mushroom-themed sides were devoured, most of the fish was left untouched.

Only the Sea Scallops and Wild Alaskan White Salmon had escaped the heat. The scallops, however, met with their own demise. They were rendered obsolete by the good but overpowering Crabmeat Risotto that accompanied them.

The White Salmon was prepared perfectly (hoorah!) and the rich fish had a melt-in-your-mouth quality we all coveted.

We complained to our waiter and our plight was taken very seriously. The manager offered to have our entrees re-cooked, but it was nearing 11:30pm on Friday night and we just couldn’t muster the energy. As I mentioned in last week’s post, we were ultimately awarded with two free desserts to make up for the preparation miscues.

As the manager apologized to us, a large platter of shucked oysters passed behind her en route to another table. I licked my lips, trying to recall the delectable taste of the Martha’s Vineyard Oyster I had earlier. I vowed to return. But next time, I won’t let my food stop in the kitchen.

Aqua Grill

www.aquagrill.com

210 Spring Street

New York, NY 10013

212.274.0505

[Food:4.5/5]

My summer ended in a weekend of free desserts.

On Friday night at Aqua Grill, management “tri”aged five of us with three sweets to compensate for three over-cooked fish dishes. Yes, three out of five of our dishes were incorrectly prepared. But more on that next week; I’d rather leave summer behind with more idyllic memories.

On Saturday night my husband and I dined at Gramercy Tavern where any lingering thoughts of the previous night’s follies were erased by perfectly cooked entrees.

We’ve dined at Gramercy a few times over the years; always in the dining room. Each time, as I approach the host’s stand, I begin to pine for the hubbub of the Tavern. The gorgeous murals that decorate the ceiling above the bar are a bold and fitting overlay to the lively atmosphere. But each time, I dutifully follow the host to the back dining room where the din is also casual, yet sublimely romantic. When I settle into my table for the evening, the wooden beamed ceilings arching above my head, any regrets disappear.

Gramercy Tavern is renowned for its service. It prides itself on providing friendly, knowledgeable, and attentive service that is not suffocating or overly formal. It’s the kind of place where your water glass is always full, but you don’t remember anyone coming by to fill it. True to form, our water glasses were kept full and dishes were delivered and cleared cheerfully and expeditiously. We did, however, feel as though we were given a little too much space. We were ready to order a good ten minutes before our server even came by to walk us through the menu. No one asked if we were enjoying our starters or entrees. No one came to offer us a second piece of bread. I don’t like being suffocated, but for an $82 prix fixe, I do want a certain level of attention.

At Gramercy Tavern diners choose between a three-course menu and two five-course tasting menus. Savory dishes can be pulled, mixed, and matched from any of the menus and sized as smaller or larger portions. We relished the flexibility.

Both starters were elegant in appearance and light and balanced in taste. Paper-thin slices of Summer Squash and Cured Pork Loin were folded like origami paper and arranged in a colorful line of yellow, green, and pink. The pork, though not overpowering, stood out against the vegetables and a drizzle of Husk Cherry Vinaigrette.

Citrus Cured Arctic Char was similarly refined. Delicate, pinkish-orange pieces of char were laid atop a tartare version of the same fish. There wasn’t a dollop of cream, nor a cracker in sight. This one was all about the fish.

It was when our entrees of lamb and duck arrived that the fireworks started. Both meats were extraordinary in quality and both were prepared flawlessly.

Earthy Rack of Lamb, served without the bone, melted in your mouth. Beneath the two tournedos, smears of broccoli puree glowed emerald.

I’ve spent the last few days trying to recall a better duck entree. I can’t. There wasn’t a hint of gaminess in the Glazed Duck Breast & Leg Confit. There wasn’t a single chewy bite. The glaze brushed atop its crispy skin was sweet and decadent, but not overbearing. On the side, a simply roasted, half-bulb of fennel was unadulterated and delicious.

I would be remiss not to mention that the Swiss Chard that accompanied the duck and the Quarter’s Lettuce that adorned the lamb were very over-salted. But we were so happy to direct all our taste buds’ attention towards the meats, we hardly cared.

When the dessert menu arrived we narrowed it down to three choices and asked our server for advice. Tableside, he chose the Warm Chocolate Bread Pudding and the Grand Marnier Mascarpone Cheesecake. But, when they were delivered to our table so was the Chocolate Macaroon; our other choice. The Chocolate Macaroon (which would have made Pierre Herme proud), was filled with the most scrumptious of Peanut Butter Semifreddos and ended up stealing the show. The cheesecake followed the “elegant and light” theme, but when I order cheesecake I’m looking for creamy decadence. The Bread Pudding had a bit of an identity crisis, caught somewhere between brioche and lava cake.

We also indulged in the extensive wine by-the-glass list, which offers all glasses in three and five ounce pours.

Add it all up (and don’t forget the pork sausage amuse bouche, the petit fours, and the parting gift of breakfast cake) and it’s clear that Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern remains at the head of the pack.

Our summer ended on a very sweet note.

Gramercy Tavern

www.gramercytavern.com

42 East 20th Street

New York, NY 10003

212.477.0777

I’m currently on Martha’s Vineyard where sun, lighthouses, sand, picture-perfect homes, and good food abound. Below, in lieu of a NYC restaurant review, are some eating highlights from my trip:

“Salad the way the chefs eat it” at Alchemy in Edgartown. A typical salad dressed with vinaigrette is topped with mashed potatoes and potato chips! Strange indeed, but also oddly good.

Fried clams from The Bite in Menemsha. A tiny roadside shack serves up every type of seafood – all via the fryer. The clams were excellent and the perfect accompaniment to a bottle of white wine and the sunset.

Brunch at the Art Cliff Diner in Vineyard Haven. An extensive and scrumptious brunch and lunch menu is served until 2pm. Eggs Benedict with avocado, arugula, and tomato was divine. Hash browns covered in cheese, chives, chopped tomatoes, and sour cream gave us energy for our day’s bike ride.

Breakfast at Among the Flowers Café in Edgartown. A charming courtyard sets the stage for eggs, crepes, french toast, waffles, and any other breakfast food you can imagine, all served on paper plates and consumed with plastic utensils.

See you next week in NYC!

[Food:3/5]

After a two-year delay Delicatessen has finally opened its doors, and they’re huge. Multiple garage-like openings give Delicatessen an open air feel and allow its cool vibe to flow freely to the sidewalks on the SoHo-NoLIta border. Delicatessen is run by the experienced people behind Cafeteria and it’s a good bet that its presence in the neighborhood will be just as big as its doors.

Inside, apron-clad servers bustle about the white tables and wooden walls hung with horizontal mirrors. It’s hard not to like. The noise level was ideal for the atmosphere – buzzing, but not conversation impairing.

Two rooms downstairs are uber-swanky. Glassware-filled shelves decorate the bar area while graffiti-painted walls and a cored-out atrium make another ideal for lounging.

Despite a definite hip factor, there wasn’t a hint of attitude from the friendly and welcoming staff. Our server was knowledgeable about the menu and attentive throughout the night.

The cuisine? Haute diner. In addition to Delicatessen’s inventive takes on greasy spoon favorites, the extensive menu is part comfort, part whimsical, part continental. There’s Pastrami on Rye, Burgers, and Matzo Ball Soup. There are Reuben Fritters and Cheeseburger Spring Rolls. There are Grilled Lamp Chops and Yellowfin Tuna.

Creative license runs most rampantly through the appetizers, where crowd pleasers, many of them deep-fried, abound. The crispy and greasy morsels arrive in adorable silver buckets with ramekins of dipping sauces.

The cheesy ground beef in the Cheeseburger Spring Rolls was reminiscent of Hamburger Helper. For two of my dining friends this translated to genius. I’d rather eat a slider, but can’t argue that the idea deserves kudos.

Reuben Fritters were very good, but the sauerkraut and corned beef lost their pungency in the frying process. Many bites tasted simply like fried cheese dipped into Thousand Island dressing. This was not necessarily a bad thing and I wouldn’t hesitate to order them again.

The best of the lot were the Halibut Tacos. Four crispy wanton envelopes were filled with shredded halibut and topped with a squirt of spiced guacamole and kimchi sour cream. They were delicious and fun.

A description of the day’s special Cucumber Soup promised spice and depth, but it arrived lackluster and watery.

For dinner, we kept the fryer bubbling. Chicken in a Bucket was incredibly moist and juicy. Before it hits the oil the chicken is soaked in buttermilk; seemingly for days.

The Fish and Chips used monkfish and was levels above the run-of-the-mill, battered, and fried cod that is the norm. Often, the small pieces of cod disintegrate under the weight of their oily crust. Here, the monkfish was flavorful, meaty, and dense.

A hearty sphere of BBQ Meatloaf looked like an oversized meatball. The ground beef was moist and flavored generously. Every bite, scooped up with creamy mashed potatoes and a drizzle of BBQ sauce, was tasty.

A preparation of Cantonese Style Atlantic Salmon demonstrated the kitchen’s breadth. The plump and pink filet, topped with a crispy skin, was cooked a perfect medium rare. Though the skin was salty, the well-executed fish, stir-fried bok choy and soy vinaigrette came together to create a refined and delightful dish.

The fun (and yes, the fryer) carried into our desserts.

Delicatessen’s take on S’mores involved breading the marshmallows in graham cracker crumbs and panko before frying them. Lovers of the traditional camping treat may not be impressed, but I, never a fan of black char on my marshmallows, found them to be fabulously gooey, crunchy, and sweet. The thin chocolate sauce, however, left me craving melted Hershey squares.

An Ovaltine Pudding featured layers of vanilla and chocolate pudding and mini malt balls. While it had all the right textures, it lacked richness.

The vibe is cool, the price points feel right, and there’s food to make everyone happy. Haute diner food might just have the makings of a NYC trend.

Delicatessen

54 Prince Street

New York, NY 10012

212.226.0211