[Food:3.5/5]

Having dined at a number of Nobu outfits across the globe, as new Manhattan residents it seemed almost necessary to visit the flagship restaurant in TriBeCa. Nobu Matsuhisa revolutionized Japanese cuisine. Chefs around the world have mimicked his dishes and while it is now possible to have a “nobu-like” meal in many restaurants, homage must be paid to the master and to the restaurant where it all began.

The sublime interior at Nobu Tribeca, constructed of wood, stone and dotted with birch trees, successfully evokes a vision of rural Japan. More recently opened Nobu outposts feature overly slick designs and cater to a clientele often more interested in being seen than appreciating Matsuhisa’s stellar cuisine. Nobu Tribeca provides a calming and serene atmosphere where the patrons seem eager to delight in modern Japanese dishes.  

We opted to sit at the sushi bar, our favorite place to enjoy Japanese food. It seemed only right to hone in on Matsuhisa’s signature dishes and despite some guilt at our lack of originality, we eagerly ordered yellowtail sashimi and jalapeno, rock shrimp tempura, and black cod with miso. The order did, however, feel a bit low on raw fish and we quickly added in handful of sashimi pieces. The yellowtail and jalapeno is a dish that I have had at many a Japanese restaurant, well before I even dined at my first Nobu. The dish relies heavily on the taste and texture of the yellowtail, which while very good this particular night, was not excellent. (This is where I remind you that we’ve just come from Seattle, spoiled by the freshest fish and more specifically, some of the best yellowtail we’ve had anywhere.) Speaking of Seattle, one of our favorite Japanese restaurants in the Emerald City added a small garlic chip to their rendition of this starter and the added texture and crunch brought the dish to another level. (Perhaps Matsuhisa should start to borrow back some ideas.) The rock shrimp tempura was outstanding. Large pieces of meaty shrimp are perfectly battered and fried. The tempura that encases each bite of shrimp is just the right density, providing flavor balance without overpowering the shrimp. Even when you get to the bottom of the pile, and yes, it is quite a pile, the once buried pieces are still not soggy. They’ve somehow retained their crispy out layer. While you might see miso black cod on many a menu, Matsuhisa’s version is one of the best. For days before it makes its way to the grill, the black cod sits in a marinade of sake, miso, mirin, and sugar. To achieve its black, sticky and flavorful exterior, the black cod is grilled before it is baked in an oven. The process culminates in a piece of fish so luscious that it is easily devoured with chopsticks; flaky pieces of sweet fish literally fall away from the fillet. The sashimi was all very good, but nothing spectacular. All the pieces had great texture, but not overwhelmingly incredible taste.

Nobu is expensive, and though you can have similarly prepared food at a number of restaurants, there is something special about dining at Matuhisa’s first outpost. It is a bit of culinary history and worth the price of entry.

Nobu

www.noburestaurants.com

105 Hudson Street

New York, NY 10013

(212) 219-0500

[Food:2.5/5]

I’m pretty sure I could have spent a lifetime in the city without ever eating at Kampuchea. This would have been nothing short of a tragedy. Thankfully some friends introduced us to the fabulous Cambodian fare at this LES establishment. It is one of those places with so many delectable choices, where you’ll have favorite dishes you can’t bare not to order, and other dishes that call to you depending on what mood suits you. It is casual, lively, and reasonably priced. It is the perfect spot for a low-key Tuesday night dinner or an ideal first stop on a Saturday night of bar-hopping. This seems like a good time to mention the lychee martini, potentially a reason to visit Kampuchea on its own. The bartender always takes a bit too long to make them, but they are worth the wait. (I’ve learned to order my next round when a couple inches of liquid still remain in my glass).

Flavors and spice abound at Kampuchea. After a handful of visits, I can confidently assert that the food is consistent and there are few things on the menu that are not palate pleasers. If you follow your taste buds and order whatever is appealing, you can’t go wrong. Kampuchea is best experienced family style and with their hefty portions, the more fellow diners, the more dishes you’ll be able to try.

The menu is broken into five categories: small hot plates, small cold plates, crepes, Num Pang (Cambodian sandwiches), and noodles. The same main ingredients make an appearance in every category, though always in distinct form and with distinct flavors. The crepes have yet to really draw me in and hot small plates always comprise a larger part of my order than the cold small plates. The ribs, skirt steak, chicken wings, and pork belly are all worthy orders. Each one is dense with flavor and has its own personality.

Num Pang is a simple sandwich, but with chili mayo and a toasted baguette, choices such as Oxtail, skirt steak, and catfish are transformed into tasty creations that are anything but ordinary. With too many good options the Tasting (quietly sitting at the end of the list) offers a tasting of three sandwiches of your choice, and brings much relief. If you forced me to say so, I would claim the catfish to be a standout. Be warned that these sandwiches work their way into your dreams and cravings come often.

The noodle dishes are the largest on the menu as evidenced by both the price and the basin-like bowls in which they arrive. There are so many ingredients in each noodle soup that it becomes imperative to read the descriptions carefully. You could be easily drawn in by the shrimp and pork, but just as easily turned off by the additions of pork belly and sausage. Spice levels can be adjusted as well, so don’t be put off if something sounds too mild or hot.

Kampuchea does not serve dessert, which is a bit of a disappointment. On the other hand, it is the perfect meal to top off with a simple scoop of ice cream or maybe another lychee martini.

Kampuchea

http://www.kampucheanyc.com/

78 Rivington Street

New York, NY 10002

(212) 529-3901

Watching the meticulous construction of a falafel pita at Azuri Café in Hell’s Kitchen will leave you mesmerized. Each bite of your falafel pita will leave you awestruck. Over a dozen ingredients comprise the falafel pita at this hole-in-the-wall that is not frequented for its décor or service. They’re all about the food at Azuri, and for that you’ll thank them. The plethora of ingredients (falafel, tabbouleh, pickled radish, hummus, eggplant, and tahini – just to name a few) are placed in a spongy pita pocket in a precise and specific order, leaving behind a masterfully layered creation of flavor. The freshly fried falafel are disk-shaped and carry their chickpea flavor despite their ingredient-laden surroundings. There is not a hint of oil. Somehow each bite (except for the finale), includes a morsel of falafel and a smattering of tastes from the other components. The last tangy bite, however, consists of just a small bit of pita and hummus, leaving your palate lemony and refreshed. Azuri is closed from sundown on Friday to sundown on Saturday.

Azuri Cafe

465 West 51st Street

New York, NY 10019

(212) 262-2920

There must be a JG Melon in heaven. The cheeseburgers at this Upper East Side institution are so good, so perfect actually, that the only reason I don’t eat here multiple times a week are the ten subway stops that separate me from this other-worldly patty of ground beef. Yes, I have been to the Burger Joint. Yes, I have been to PJ Clarke’s. Smith & Wollensky’s: yes. Corner Bistro: yes. You name the New York burger, I’ll tell you I’ve tried it. Nothing compares. Always cooked perfectly, the burgers arrive juicy and abounding with just the right seasoning (and no doubt some secret ingredients to which we’ll never be privy). The size of the patty is ideal, though it might look small upon arrival. Ordering a side of cottage fried potatoes is obligatory and you won’t regret a beer or a bloody. Be sure to take in the kitschy and dated decor of melon art as you sit at the bar and order or wait for table. Beware, credit cards are not accepted.

JG Melon’s

1291 Third Avenue

New York, NY 10021

(212) 744-0585