[Food:4/5]

The fish is delectable, the flavors are delightful, and the presentations are flawless. To fully appreciate the taste and craftsmanship, conversation should cease while you chew and swallow each bite of heaven. It’s the omakase at Sushi of Gari. My mouth waters at the mere thought of it.

Sit at the sushi bar, sip on sake, and watch the masterful chefs assemble divine, and somewhat radical, preparations of sushi. Gari’s omakase might not be as ground breaking as when it first burst onto the sushi scene, but it is just as fabulous. Gari (nickname for chef Masatoshi Sugio) takes individual pieces of high-quality, melt-in-your-mouth fish (your choice of nigiri or sashimi) and balances its flavor and texture with a unique topping. Even the most purist of sushi lovers will applaud the outcomes.

Gari’s success has allowed for expansion and there are three outposts – the UES original, a hipster UWS site, and a midtown venue. I’ll admit that I’ve never had anything but the omakase at any of Gari’s establishments, but I can’t find a single reason to stray from the innovative nibbles. (Yes, I’ve been to all three and I can confidently report that Gari’s fleet of sushi chefs churn out the same wondrous bites at all of them.)

There’s tuna with tofu paste – the reddish color and silky texture of the fish contrast beautifully with the pale and slightly gritty dollop. A mini-salad of lettuce, vinaigrette, and pine nuts rests atop a glistening piece of red snapper. Salmon is topped with cooked onions and tomato – the vegetables’ heat radiates into the piece of fish below them, softening it further so the entire bite dissolves in your mouth. Golden-eyed snapper is adorned with dried seaweed. An oyster is broiled with rice and breadcrumbs and served hot in the oyster shell; a Japanese rendition of clams casino. Need I go on?

The bites are always expertly balanced – seemingly bizarre toppings pair beautifully with their respective fish. It’s far from cheap, but it’s worth it. After he has prepared about ten pieces of fish for you, the sushi chef will ask if you’d like to keep eating. I’ve never been able to say no.

Sushi of Gari

www.sushiofgari.com

Multiple Locations