[Food:3.5/5]

A Voce received accolades when it opened a couple of years ago and it has since secured its place in the NYC dining scene. This week, A Voce is back in the headlines as rumors swirl that a second outpost will open in the Time Warner Center. Serving excellent Italian food in a modern, almost business-like décor, A Voce should translate perfectly to the Time Warner, as should its success.

The menu at A Voce, which means ‘Word of Mouth,’ is the creation of Chef Andrew Carmellini. Before opening these digs on lower Madison Avenue, Carmellini worked at Café Boulud. While the classic and rustic Italian fare at A Voce may be a departure from his previous restaurant experience, his menu is focused and his abilities are undeniable.

Earth tones and clean lines abound. Guests swivel about in caramel colored Eames chairs that look as though they were squandered from a Wall Street conference room. You forgive the oddity, however, due to their incredible comfort. Terrible acoustics provide for a very loud dining room. During peak hours, when the bar overflows with patrons waiting for their tables, carrying on a conversation can get difficult.

Our waiter, who disappeared for long stretches of time, seemed overwhelmed. He didn’t answer questions with great confidence and as the night progressed he became harder and harder to hear over the din.

A starter of Sheep’s Milk Ricotta, sprinkled with herbs, sea salt, and olive oil, arrived in a lovely terra cotta bowl. If only for a moment, as you slather the fresh and creamy cheese on slices of bread, you’re whisked away to the Italian countryside.

A small crock of Crostini alla Toscana, chicken liver foie gras with moscato d’asti, was served with crispy toast. Pairing a hint of sweet with savory foie gras is not a novel union, but it is always good. At A Voce, the chicken liver tasted deeper and richer than usual, making it even better.

Peperonata and lemon sauce gave kick to a tender, albeit small, portion of Grilled Octopus. Unfortunately for chefs across the world, I have yet to find anyone who does grilled octopus better than Batali.

As a special entrée, Venison was gussied up with nuts, foie gras, huckleberries and jus. All the flavors flourished and just when you thought Carmellini had outdone himself, you had a bite of the accompanying stuffed cabbage.

Parmesan shavings decorated pillows of pasta stuffed with sweet squash. The Tortelloni de Zucca, further adorned with a light cream sauce, was decadent without being too heavy.

The successes continued to mount, which made the Pappardelle with Lamb Bolognese that much more disappointing. There was such a small amount of bolognese mixed into such a heaping portion of pasta that it almost seemed unfair to judge the dry Bolognese on its own merit. Even the dollops of sheep’s milk ricotta couldn’t liven the dish.

Roasted bananas saddled a delicious Hazelnut Torta. The accompanying scoop of rum raisin gelato was the root of much conversation, but in the end, did not garner any fans. After a meal of delicious and unfussy food, the Red Wine Panna Cotta, served with milk chocolate salsa and orange poached pear, tried too hard to be something it wasn’t.

While A Voce doesn’t take any big risks and Carmellini doesn’t try any big tricks, the food is solid and the reputation well-deserved.

A Voce

www.avocerestaurant.com

41 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10010

212.545.8555

[Food:4/5]

Metal latticework covers the tiny storefront of Momofuku Ko and if you’re not one of the lucky few with a reservation at David Chang’s newest restaurant, you probably wouldn’t even notice the peach etched into the glass door. This is probably just what David Chang, the man behind the ever-popular Momofuku Ssam and Momofuku Noodle Bar, intended.

A sand-colored wooden bar and fourteen stools fill the minimalist long and narrow space. If you’ve managed to score a reservation (more on that in a minute) you’ll be in the hands of Chef Peter Serpico for the next eight courses. There is no menu. There are no choices. (The staff does, however, kindly ask if you have any food allergies or aversions.) Not having to peruse a menu or make decisions about one’s order was refreshing and eating at the whims of Chang and Serpico is a culinary treat. Sit back, watch, and enjoy.

The small wine list consists of high-end and safe brands (think Kistler and Patz & Hall), but there is no reason to look past the wine flight. Six pairings, from champagne to sake to asti, with some lovely wines mixed in between, is the icing on the cake.

Getting into Momofuku Ko makes securing a table at Per Se seem like child’s play. There are no phones. There are no month-out reservations so you can plan ahead for that special occasion. There are no tables selling on TableXchange. All reservations are granted by the Momofuku Ko Reservation website. Every morning at 10am reservations are released for the corresponding day in the following week. You have to give a credit card to log into the website and the website threatens that you’ll be asked for ID when you arrive. Since Momofuku Ko’s opening, one night’s worth of reservations have been disappearing in under one minute. Yes, we’re talking seconds, so start exercising that trigger finger. Assuming someone would cancel a reservation I had taken to checking the website at random times. Lo and behold, one night at 11pm my efforts were rewarded. Plans were re-arranged and calendars were cleared for the this-may-be-a-once-in-a-lifetime-occasion.

Portions were sizable for an eight-course meal, but dishes are not starch-laden, there is no breadbasket flanked by multiple types of butter, and no ovation of petit fours arrives with your check. You somehow walk out of Momofuku Ko without tugging at the waistband of your pants.

Admittedly, I was disappointed by the calm demeanor of the chefs on the other side of the bar. They are just a few feet away in the open kitchen, preparing and plating multiple dishes. I had grand illusions of a Benihana-meets-Iron Chef atmosphere, but there were no theatrics aside from a few beads of sweat and Serpico’s occasional order to “Fire!”

Dinner for two had an added advantage. My husband and I were not always served the same dish, allowing us to taste even more of Chang’s creations. (My husband did comment that when your dish was better, sharing it no longer seemed like an advantage.)

An Amuse Bouche of homemade pork rinds was followed by English muffins grilled with pork fat and fresh basil leaves. Both were tasty, but neither came close to representing the depth of Chang’s abilities and what we were about to consume over the next handful of courses. I likened it to “limping in” at the poker table.

Fresh pieces of crab was buried under a pile of vibrantly green, shaved avocado. Though beautiful to look at, it was the punch of horseradish that brought the dish to life. A buttermilk, sriracha, white soy and poppy seed dressing gussied up thin slices of fluke. By the end of the course we were dipping pieces of crab from the other dish into the creamy and spicy dressing. If they sold bottles by the door, I would have bought two.

Pea Soup with cannelloni of vegetables ruined me for any future pea soup I may try. It was, hands down, the best pea soup I’ve ever had. It was gorgeous in color and both sweet and deep in flavor. (It was only at this juncture I longed for a piece of bread to swath out the green remains from the bowl.) An intriguing combination of oysters, cabbage and Berkshire pork all bathed in consommé, was delicate, but didn’t meld. The oysters immersed in warm broth were the highlight – a new and delicious way to eat the normally cold shellfish.

A dish of scallop, manila clams, and striped bass was our least favorite. The scallop, browned on its top, but just cooked through its middle was the standout.

If you’ve read anything about Momofuku Ko, you’ve read about these next two dishes. First up, a generous heaping of caviar is spooned over a smoked egg. A sweet and salty puddle of onion soubise and a handful of mini potato chips finish off the dish. Although we found the combination salty, one cannot deny the thought, execution, and presentation that goes into such a culinary construct.

The triumph of the night, a reason in itself to try and secure a reservation and shell out $85 for the menu, was the shaved foie gras atop Riesling gelee, lychees, and pine nut brittle. The clay-colored foie gras is frozen, allowing it to be grated over the sweet and crunchy compote. Once a spoonful of foie gras hits your mouth the shavings instantly melt on your tongue. Perfect balance. Perfect texture. It doesn’t get much better than this.

I applaud Chang for the ingenuity of the deep fried short rib; it was like no short rib I’ve had before. We’re accustomed to short ribs whose fat has been rendered by braising and slow-cooking; a process that causes the entire piece of meat to tenderize. By dropping the meat into the fryer, a dark and crispy exterior layer forms around the meat, but the interior tenderness is not compromised. Pickled carrots provided acidity while the accompanying daikon topped with mustard seed was amazing enough to have been its own dish.

A scoop of Pineapple sorbet served atop dried pineapple pieces was the palate cleanser before the deep fried apple pie concluded our meal. The pie had an ideal crust to filling ratio; there wasn’t a single bite that tasted too doughy or sweet. Though the sour ice cream and toasted miso sounded like masterful accompaniments, the sour ice cream could not tame the incredibly salty miso. We happily ate the apple pie on its own.

Chang pushes the limits without making you uncomfortable. He produces original dishes that keep us buzzing, but never questioning.

Momofuku Ko

www.momofuku.com

163 1st Avenue

New York, NY 10003

No Phone

[Food:3/5]

On a Tuesday night The Smith was packed with a lively crowd. If they were in search of reasonably priced drinks and comfort food, they did not leave disappointed.

The Third Avenue space used to be a Pizzeria Uno and the ghosts of deep dish linger over the low lighting, dark booths, and high-octane noise level. With its white-tiled walls, vintage-type photos, co-ed bathroom, and photo booth, The Smith is the quirky and upscale cousin of a college hangout. It is not the place to take your parents for an evening out.

The Smith secures the success of its comfort food and drink with digestible prices. Starters are under $10 and Main Courses are under $20. Whimsical cocktails did not exceed $9 and Draft Beers were $5. House wines, offered by the Glass, Carafe, and Big Carafe, were priced for consumption.

Service was friendly and timely, though our young female server did often look like a deer in headlights, prompting someone at our table to remark, “I think she is scared of us”. It was a definite possibility.

Tuna Tartare was out of place in a Starter section where almost every other option had cheese, bacon, or promised to emerge from a fryer. Tossed with jalapeno and topped with cucumber slaw, the tuna was well-prepared and of good quality. The dish’s measly size was its only downfall. I can only assume the reason being to keep its price in line with the other starters.

On the other hand, we were unable to fully consume the heaping mound of Fried Calamari. Prepared “Brooklyn Style,” the calamari was not tender nor was its batter particularly tasty. (I can only assume these are not “Brooklyn Style” qualities; whatever that may mean). While the fried rings weren’t greasy, they lacked the crispy coating we expected. The surprisingly robust marinara sauce, however, deserved kudos.

Though the Mac + Cheese arrived in its own cast iron pot, it was devoid of the requisite brown and bubbly top that normally accompanies any food prepared in such a vessel. The macaroni, cooked al dente, did have a good consistency but the dish itself was in desperate need of salt.

Keeping in line with the high fat, comfort food theme, I gave in to temptation and ordered the Beer Battered String Beans. I was so glad that I did; the beans put the calamari to shame.

Everything about the Pot of Mussels was tremendous. The meaty mussels were some of the biggest ones I’d ever seen and the sheer number of them was astounding. The Chardonnay broth infused the mussels with just the right amount of seasoning, but logistics got in the way of ultimate success. Because the pot was so tall, it was near-impossible to get to the liquid at the bottom. Sadly, just as I was getting full, the elusive broth became accessible. The accompany fries were the crispy, skinny ones that you can’t help but stuff into your mouth by the handful.

The Smith’s meat-free version of the Korean rice dish, Vegetable “Bibimbap,” was solidly prepared with a sunny-side up egg and vegetables, but was fairly bland. How it found its way to the menu, wedged between the Sausage and Pork Chop, is unclear.

One of the evening’s specials, a “gently” Braised Lamb Shank might be an indication of the kitchen’s abilities and potential. Tender meat adhered to the bone but fell away obediently the minute your fork pulled at it. A deep braising sauce, ladled with restraint, allowed the meat to stand on its own.

The Smith’s Burger Deluxe has its own section on the menu. It deserves it. Bacon, cheese, and special sauce graced a hearty meat patty cooked a perfect medium rare. It was juicy and flavorful.

The desserts, an assortment of flavor-themed ice cream Sundaes (think strawberry and peanut butter) concluded our meal on a somewhat lackluster note. But looking around the room filled with smiling and energetic co-eds, I’d venture to say our sentiments were not shared.

The Smith

www.thesmithnyc.com

55 Third Avenue

New York, NY 10003

(212) 420-9800

[Food:3.5/5]

Olana, Chef Al Di Meglio’s just opened Flatiron restaurant, has legs. While the diverse menu appears to suffer from an identity crisis whose resolution lies somewhere between the Hudson River Valley and Italy, Meglio offers an array of well-balanced and flavorful creations. In addition to meat, game, and fish, there are half a dozen pastas, each offered in starter and entrée sizes. Two dishes, a Grilled Whole Turbot and a Cote de Bouef, are meant to be shared.

Olana is named after the Hudson River Valley estate of Frederic Edwin Church. Homage is paid to Church, a famous painter from the Hudson River Valley School, with three landscape murals in the main dining room. Two are oddly positioned next to one another while the third hangs on the opposite side of the room. The plush, cranberry-colored chairs and tan leather walls are the décor’s high points while the circular bar is instantly inviting. A table in the more intimate back room, complete with fireplace, is worthy of a special request.

A suit-wearing, friendly, managerial type proficiently handled our food and wine order while a black-clad support staff tended to the service details. If the restaurant is met with popularity, more trained servers will have to be brought into the mix. During our visit, service was impressively attentive and helpful, especially for a restaurant still in its preview phase.

As with any new restaurant in its nascent stages, snafus have to be expected. When our starters arrived “Chinese food fast” we prepared ourselves for a rushed evening. Thankfully our fears were assuaged with well-paced entrée and dessert delivery. We were more disappointed when an entrée we did not order was placed on the table. The staff, however, met this error with grace and resilience. Our waiter took full responsibility for entering the wrong dish into the computer, had the correct dish speedily prepared, and then comped us dessert with his sincerest apologies. He didn’t offer any excuses, nor did he get defensive. The sincere and expedient way in which he dealt with the issue reminded me that poor service is not born from mistakes, but rather, from how mistakes are handled.

Shredded radicchio, celery slices, and nicoise olives are tossed with tender pieces of grilled octopus in the Octopus Salad. Beautiful circles of octopus carpaccio were buried under the sea of color, an unfortunate hiding place for the highlight of a dish whose separate ingredients were better than the execution of their whole.

A starter sized portion of Veal and Ricotta Cappellaci was fantastic. Pasta plump with delicate ricotta and flavorful veal was intensified by a roasted tomato sauce that tasted wondrously of fire. Pistachio nuts nestled into the pillows of pasta lent appealing texture.

The dense filet of Monkfish Ossobuco was converted into savory goodness with braised endives and lardons. Just the right amount of herb jus kept the dish moist while a complement of sweet parsnip puree balanced the entire dish beautifully.

The Roasted Rabbit, stuffed with crunchy almonds, sweet apricots and decadent foie gras made for pleasing forkfuls. Creating the perfect bite did not require individual stabs at the dish’s components, but rather each bite was gift wrapped under a well-seasoned and crispy skin.

For dessert, the tidy stack of banana mousse, cake, and wafer-thin layers of dark chocolate, formed a sophisticated and tasty Banana Napoleon.

Dining at a new restaurant in its early days is undeniably exciting – you feel as if you’re on the culinary cutting edge. Though any new dining venture is bound to have its handful of issues, more often than not Olana felt like a well-settled restaurant ready for business.

Olana

www.olananyc.com

72 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10016

(212) 725-0957

[Food:2.5/5]

From the moment I read about Bar Boulud I was excited. A restaurant focusing on charcuterie was a relatively novel proposition for NYC and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my experiences at Boulud’s other Manhattan establishments. I figured a formula that added Boulud to terrines and pates could only equal something fantastic. There were early reviews about Bar Boulud’s service hiccups but I figured after a couple of months all the kinks would be ironed out. After all, this was a Daniel Boulud place… I couldn’t have been more wrong.

Bar Boulud’s long and narrow construct is extremely awkward. Throughout the meal I couldn’t help but wonder if many of the restaurant’s service issues are due in part to the layout. Servers and busboys have to travel significant distances to provide service and there is no vantage point from which a manager can survey the restaurant and see what might be amiss. While the interior design is aesthetically appealing, the light woods, high ceiling, and stark lighting contrasts unfavorably with the bistro fare.   

We were not seated until after 9:30pm despite our 9pm reservation. When someone finally came to tell us our table was ready, neither an apology nor an explanation was offered. When we checked in for our reservation, a hostess escorted us to the designated “bar” located in the middle of the restaurant to wait. The bar is actually a display case where all the charcuterie is housed. There is not a bottle of alcohol or a bartender in sight. (Think sushi bar without a chef behind it.) It would make an alright place for two people to enjoy charcuterie nibbles, but it certainly isn’t the place for people to gather while they wait for tables. Due to the restaurant’s slender design we were constantly bumped and jostled and even worse, no one offered to take a drink order.

We were finally led to our table at the very front of the restaurant. We actually displaced other patrons who were standing around our seats waiting for their own tables. With such a measly bar area, spill over moves to the front. Bar Boulud does not have the typical anterior door system that most NYC restaurants have installed for the winter months and every time the door to the restaurant opened, a cold wind blew over our table. One of my girlfriends didn’t take her coat off for the entire meal. Another girlfriend looked as though she were in a Pantene commercial, her silky hair constantly blowing about her face.

Once seated, we immediately ordered two bottles of wine (we were, after all, thirsty from our drinkless stand at the bar). The sommelier did not return for over fifteen minutes (and I assure you these bottles were not tucked away in the “special reserve” cave). After the initial pour the sommelier disappeared and because the wine needed to be chilled, it disappeared with him. We had to ask our server for refills twice before just asking for the bottle to be brought to the table.

Though our server was very nice, she clearly lacked experience. There was only one entrée special available that evening, but she still had to read its entire description from a piece of paper. Any questions we asked were answered without confidence.

As for the bus boys, I must commend the water service. It was the only aspect of the service that was excellent. Perhaps they were so busy pouring water that their other duties fell by the wayside. Our charcuterie and appetizer plates were never taken away and we watched in dismay as our entrees appeared over our shoulders only to vanish back to the kitchen while the table was cleared.

I’ll take this opportunity to let you know that the bill for six of us was $600 (including tax and tip). At $100 a person, this type of service is inexcusable.

We started with the large Charcuterie Degustation as well as the Escargot and Snapper appetizers. We all really enjoyed the sampling provided on the charcuterie platter and it was fun to share with a group.  The Compote of braised beef cheek and the Pate of pheasant and cherry were standouts. The Terrine of curried chicken had the least flavor. A colorful array of vegetables and mustards accompanied the charcuterie. Deep purple beets and cooked carrots received the rave reviews. Both the piquant and grainy mustards were delicious.

The Escargots were good, but more butter and more herbs would have made them more memorable. The bland, marble-sized potato croquettes they came with looked much better than they tasted. The Snapper preparation was light and asian-inspired, but didn’t quite fit in with the rest of the meal.

Our group was not too diverse in the entrée department – we all gravitated towards the Lamb Stew, Skate, and the Rabbit special. Bites of lamb alternated between tender and chewy and the savory stew felt out of place in this very bright and high ceilinged space. The dense and flavorful Skate, stuffed with mushrooms, was delicious. Rabbit with herbs and bacon was well executed and its crispy skin and juicy meat demonstrated solid preparation. The Skate was unique but there are certainly cozier and cheaper spots to go for good bistro fare in this city.

The complex textures of the Chocolat Noisette were a lovely showcase for chocolate and hazelnut. The Chocolate-Coffee tart tasted as if the two flavors no longer wanted to be in the same dessert together; a fellow diner offered the theory that it had been made the day before. The petit fours were a delightful assortment of fruit and chocolate confections.

If the service is terrible and the atmosphere is poor, food that doesn’t live up to its potential will not be enough to make (or save) a restaurant. Such is the case at Bar Boulud.

Bar Boulud

www.danielnyc.com/barboulud/barboulud.html

1900 Broadway

New York, NY 10023

(212) 595-0303

[Food:3/5]

On a wintry and wet night, Public was packed with hipsters. Public is as cool as its NoLIta surroundings and it comes as no surprise that five years after its opening, it can still be difficult to get a reservation. Head chef Brad Farmerie was born in Pittsburgh but there is nothing resembling a Pittsburgh sandwich on his menu (that’s when the coleslaw and fries go between the slices of bread). Farmerie has sculpted sophisticated fare by fusing flavors from Asia, Australia, and New Zealand.

The themed décor is based on Public institutions. Rows of mail boxes and keys greet you at the door, a card catalogue is stationed by the coat check, and the menus are fashioned as Product Record forms. Even the soap dispensers in the bathrooms are part of the fun – they’ll make you reminiscent of your elementary school days. Somehow, combining these quirky props with white-brick barrel ceilings, dark wood floors, and low hanging lights, creates a cool and sexy space. It’s important to note that the noise level is a few decibels too high for either a romantic evening or a larger sized party.

Our brows creased in concentration and our conversation ceased as we intently studied the menu of interesting flavors and ingredients. There are dishes for the more adventuresome: grilled kangaroo, cured wild boar, and a snail and oxtail ravioli to name a few. But more accessible dishes, like grilled scallops, baked cod, and lamb also exist for those who don’t want to venture out of their comfort zone.

As our dishes began to arrive, we realized that although the dishes appear ambitious in print, the actual results were tamer than we expected. It would be unfair not to mention expert preparation – both in cooking and presentation – but, despite tender cuts and medium rare centers, all the meat dishes we sampled were mild. One might call the flavors subtle; our table thought them too bland. Despite long lists of ingredients and seemingly intricate combinations, nothing delivered big flair or punch.

The time gap between our starters and entrees was a bit too long, but service was otherwise excellent. Our server was knowledgeable, helpful, and attentive. Our wine and water glasses were always full and we never felt rushed.

Thinly sliced Grilled Kangaroo was completely overpowered by the potency of its accompanying falafel and lemon tahini. Fried Oysters were elegantly presented in half oyster shells. They arrived crisp from the fryer and thickly battered. Their addictive wasabi-yuzu dipping sauce was sublime. The table’s favorite starter was the Mushroom Ceviche, a generous portion of thinly sliced abalone mushrooms topped with finely diced, miso-laced aubergines. The dish was completed with a dousing of ginger ponzu. It was a delightful vegetarian homage to one of my favorite hamachi preparations.

A perfect medium rare wedge of Tasmanian Sea Trout could be separated flake by flake and melted on one’s tongue. Its’ lovely pink hue and celeriac-vanilla puree evoked candied sweetness, but its slight fishy taste kept it balanced and grounded.

There weren’t enough slices of the New Zealand Venison, though a larger portion would not have made the meat more robust. It was some of the more Vension I’ve had; absent was the rich and meaty taste this cut of meat often boasts. Though attractively assembled, potato hash and Yorkshire pudding did nothing to bolster the dish.

In contrast to the Venison, there were too many pieces of Roast Lamb Sirloin and the butter knife it came with, a bit too self-congratulatory. Baby root vegetables were tender and earthy but the harissa aioli and the goats cheese polenta were devoid of much needed boldness.

For dessert, it was hard to resist the Muscavado Pavlova, a Meringue-like confection topped with formage blanc and cherry compote. It was a bizarre concoction of contradicting textures: it’s chewy and crumbly, soft and crisp, sweet and sour. It actually made me crave the Salzburger Nockerl at Wallse (but then again, what doesn’t make me crave that!). The more traditional Sticky Toffee Pudding was more cake-like than expected, but sweet and rich all the same.

Everything was well-cooked and consistently good, but the intrigue and excitement that tantalized our palate upon ordering vanished as soon as the forks reached our mouths. On the other hand, if you’re normally a timid eater, you can easily impress your dining companions by ordering the Kangaroo.

Public

www.public-nyc.com

210 Elizabeth Street

New York, NY 10012

(212) 343-7011

My quest to sample the burgers offered in my neighborhood recently led me to Ruby’s in NoLiTa. Ruby’s miniature storefront is easy to miss (I knew exactly where it was, but still managed to walk right by the entrance). The interior holds less than twenty people and the kitchen is smaller than most Manhattan bathrooms. Ruby’s dimly lit room with dark wood communal tables and benches is undeniably cozy.

A touch of flair graces Ruby’s menu; pineapple, avocado, and sweet chilis abound. In addition to a menu of burgers, paninis, and salads, Ruby’s offers a variety of fruit smoothies which can be prepared with your choice of milk or orange juice. Beware that there is not a potato to be found. Instead, a lovely mix of balsamic dressed greens is the sideshow for the sandwiches and burgers. If it is French Fries you crave, you best go elsewhere.

Having read and heard rave reviews about Ruby’s Bronte Burger, I ordered one without a moment’s hesitation. It would be impossible to deny the unique flavor and presentation of the Bronte. At Ruby’s, all the burgers come on ciabatta rolls. The thick burger patty, more oval-shaped than round, was clearly formed to fit snugly inside the oblong roll. The ciabatta roll was slathered with sweet chili mayonnaise and topped with fresh tomato slices and dark green lettuce leaves. Slices of Swiss cheese provided the final layer.

Swiss cheese is bland and my dislike for its presence on the Bronte Burger was only heightened by it not being melted. Thick, slightly chilled slices of it were laid on top of the burger. They did not add any texture or flavor. My cheese issue aside, the Bronte is tangy and sweet. It was different than any burger I’ve yet to consume in NYC and I could easily see how its unique flavor could become addictive. My complaint was about the beef itself. While the burger’s center had the perfect reddish hue of medium rare ground beef, it was dense and chewy. In addition to the unappealing texture, the ground beef lacked any semblance of flavor and seasoning to stand on its own. The Bronte burger was wholly dependent on its accompaniments.

Oddly enough, I left craving a burger.

Ruby’s

219 Mulberry Street

New York, NY 10012

(212) 925-5755

It is fitting that an eatery called Snack should find its way into the Small Bites section of this blog. But don’t be fooled. The name Snack relates much more to the size of this miniscule Greek restaurant (it has less than a dozen seats), rather than its hearty and scrumptious dishes. No matter what your Mediterranean craving, Snack will surely satisfy it with balanced dishes that flaunt delicate, yet wondrous flavors.

A vibrant mix of crisp cucumber and ripe tomato are mixed with feta cheese and slivers of red onion to form Snack’s refreshing Greek Salad. You can order it solo, or be excited to learn it comes as a side to many of the larger dishes.

Subtle spices, tomato, roasted pepper and arugula adorn the Lamb Sandwich. Juices from the braised pieces of succulent lamb are soaked up by the sandwich’s ciabatta roll, but you’ll be hard-pressed not to sop up every last drop of liquid that escapes to your plate. You’ll be left thinking about the sandwich’s magical flavor and appealing aromatics until your newfound addiction has you returning quicker than you imagined.

The Pastitsio, with its layers of ground beef, small macaroni pasta, and béchamel sauce is a favorite of many, though I prefer the Vegetarian Mousaka. (Considering I almost always opt for the meat dish, this preference is a statement in itself.) The beautifully textured Mousaka, a strata of eggplant, mushrooms, and silky béchamel sauce, is decadent but not too heavy.

Filo-wrapped Savory Pies are offered with a variety of fillings, including the mainstays of cheese and spinach. The Chicken Boureki, stuffed with tender chicken, feta cheese, and mushrooms is the most substantial of the group.

While I prefer to frequent this SoHo joint for lunch, the dinner menu warrants an evening visit. At lunch, the tables turn relatively quickly and I’ve never waited more than 15 minutes for a seat. If you’re hard-pressed for time, they also offer take-out and delivery. Hint: Snack has a larger, sister restaurant called Snack Taverna that is located in the West Village.

Snack

105 Thompson Street

New York, NY 10012

(212) 925-1040

[Food:1.5/5]

After a Thursday evening cocktail reception my husband and I found ourselves hungry in midtown at around 9:30pm. Where to grab dinner? We’d been craving cheeseburgers, but didn’t want to travel 20 blocks up to JG Melon. We were considering The Burger Joint as well as Smith and Wollensky when a friend, overhearing our dilemma, suggested the 21 Club just around the corner. We had never been to the iconic NYC eatery and it seemed a good a night as any to give it a try.

The maître’d snickered at the fact that we didn’t have a reservation, but then promptly seated us in the Bar Room amongst the Restaurant Week revelers. Expecting a “clubby” and “old boys” feel, I was not surprised by the wooden banquets and white and red checked table cloths. I was, however, taken aback by the hundreds (maybe even thousands?) of toys that hung from the ceiling. Interestingly, many of these plastic planes, trains, and automobiles have been given to the restaurant from loyal patrons.

Service was, like at so many steakhouse- type restaurants, mediocre and somewhat gruff. We had to flag down the waiter for menus and finding someone to refresh a cocktail was impossible.

We skipped the Restaurant Week menu and instead, opted for two “21 Classics”: the 21 Burger and the Creamy Chicken Hash. The burger, packed into a meatloaf-like density, carried the distinct taste of duck fat. Pickled green beans and sweet caramelized onions were zesty fixings. The Pommes Soufflees, individually puffed and hollowed potato chips, were crispy and airy. The burger was good, but not $30 good. A $5 dollar cab ride up to JG Melon for their $8.50 cheeseburger and $4 cottage fries would have been money better spent.

Cubed chicken pieces slathered in tasteless cream sauce made for a very disappointing Chicken Hash. It needed more salt. In needed more cheese. It needed more time under the broiler. It needed to be a fraction of its $36 price tag to be acceptable.

The 21 Club might be an institution with a long and storied history, but it seems to be riding the coattails of the lawn jockeys that stand guard outside. The experience is overpriced, and at least during our brief visit, it was also unremarkable.

21 Club

www.21club.com

21 W 52nd Street

New York, NY 10019

(212) 265-1900

[Food:4/5]

Head chef Kurt Gutenbrunner was born in Wallse, Austria. When he opened this New York City restaurant with his hometown’s namesake, he hoped to explore new gastronomic territory and local ingredients while revering Austrian culinary traditions. He has masterfully achieved these goals.

Wallse’s extensive menu is comprised of traditional Austrian dishes with modern updates, sophisticated European fare, and “Market” dishes that are based on seasonal ingredients. A welcomed departure from French and Italian cooking, Wallse’s food feels sufficiently adventuresome without being overly daring. There are no great risks taken, but there are also no failures. Everything we sampled was well conceived and expertly prepared. Dishes were visually appealing and complex, but never finicky.

The intimate two-room space is contemporary, but accessible enough to be a neighborhood restaurant. The noise level easily accommodates romantic diners and larger parties. Huge wall murals in blacks, grays and reds (including one of Gutenbrunner himself) decorate the walls while white tablecloths and votives adorn the tables. Service started out a bit sluggish, but improved significantly. Our wine bottles were stowed out of our reach and often neglected by our server, leaving us to ask for refills multiple times throughout the night. In contrast, the timing between courses was impeccably spaced.

Velvety and rich Chestnut Soup was bejeweled with prunes. The brilliant sprinkling of corn kernels added sweet crunch to the buttery and soft Spaetzle with Braised Rabbit. The Lightly Smoked Trout, salty and snugly rolled into a savory Palatschinken was chilled, giving it a pre-prepared-straight-from-the-refrigerator taste. Dense gnocchi and tangy glossed calamari made for an odd combination.

Entrees were generous in size and abundant in flavor. The Roasted Cod’s crispy skin was topped with chanterelle mushrooms. Its bath of ginger carrot sauce provided the ideal consistency for the light and flaky fish. Even better was the Steamed Halibut which arrived in an emerald pool of cucumber and dill sauce. The stark filet surrounded by vibrant, green sauce was stunning and refreshing. Rack of Lamb was divinely accompanied by sweet red cabbage and salty forest mushrooms. As it was not listed on the menu, we were surprised when the lamb also arrived with a side of smooth and creamy potato puree. The Classic Weiner Schnitzel’s traditional bread crumb encasement was puffed and golden brown; a liberal dollop of lingonberry jam, sweet and sumptuous.

When perusing the desserts, we did not know what Salzburger Nockerl was, but thankfully we asked! The meringue-meets-vanilla soufflé confection was one of the most memorable desserts our table had tasted in years. For the Tart, large pieces of juicy pear were slightly glazed and perched atop a light round of simple dough.

Wallse is not one of the trendiest restaurants in town, and that’s exactly how all of its loyal patrons want it. 

Wallse

www.wallserestaurant.com

344 W 11th Street

New York, NY 10014

(212) 252-2300

[Food:3/5]

While Fiamma’s interior was getting a facelift last year, new chef Fabio Trabocchi was busy re-inventing the menu. While Trabocchi was born in the Le Marche region of Italy and his food is founded firmly in these roots, his complicated preparations illustrate a flair for creativity that draws on influences outside of Italy’s borders. The result is modern and imaginative Italian food, though sometimes it seems, Trabocchi lets his imagination get away from him.

Supple black leather chairs, sleek tile work, lacquered wood, square-framed artwork, and amber orbs of light create a sophisticated and chic environment. Gorgeous dishware, in varying shapes and sizes, is flanked by contemporary cutlery. Aesthetics have not trumped comfort, and despite the chic surroundings, Fiamma feels relaxed, not stuffy. Maybe even too relaxed? We were disappointed to find many diners in jeans.

The service was more friendly than skilled. For the pricey fare, a few miscues were hard to overlook. In addition, the temperature of the dining room and the food was an issue throughout the evening. In the dining room, we would be pushing up our sleeves one minute and reaching for our wraps and sweaters the next. Every course arrived from the kitchen a few degrees too cool.

Before I move onto the food, I must mention the cost of dinner at Fiamma. When I made this reservation at the end of 2007, the price of Fiamma’s 3-course tasting menu was $75. Imagine my surprise when we opened our menus in January to find that it had been increased by twenty percent – to $89! There is no a la carte menu at Fiamma. You have a choice of a 3-, 5- or 7-course tasting menu. The 3-course menu, offered at $89, does not include dessert.

Some dishes succeeded. Some, despite intense thought and preparation, fell flat. Others, promised to be interestingly fussy on the menu, but their execution lacked vital flavor and texture. Le Vongole e La Seppia, a delicate stew of smoked cuttlefish and mussels, was lovely to admire but too salty. La Misticanza, a lovely salad of radicchio and pears tented by rectangles of pecorino excelled in its simplicity.

If you keep up with these reviews, you will have read about the Burrata we had at Supper a couple weeks ago. First, let’s forget that the Burrata at Supper was quadruple in size compared to the one at Fiamma. Next, let’s ignore that at Supper it was one third of the price. What was impossible to overcome was that Supper’s had much better consistency and flavor.

Fragrant saffron was not enough to rescue the soupy Risotto and its underdone rice. The Gnocchi’s ginger infused sauce had an unappealing tang and despite pieces of lobster, the dish was certainly not worth its $15 supplemental price tag (yes, that is on top of the $89). The Le March Lasagna was outstanding. Spherical pasta is layered with a decadent mélange of liver, gizzards, and sweetbreads.

For the Vitello, a pink and prim veal ribeye sits next to a deep and dark, slow-cooked veal cheek. The underlying potato puree and crunchy hazelnuts confirmed the dish as a triumph. Both the meat and cauliflower stufati of the L’Agnello, the Colorado Lamb, lacked heartiness. The hint of game in Il Fagiano, the pheasant, provided the ideal canvas, but an uninspired preparation took no advantage.

We dug deeper into our wallets and decided to order dessert. La Pera, a warm and buttery pear cake, was perfection. The Gianduia, a milk chocolate cream and Gianduia ice cream lacked richness and intensity.

Fiamma puts on a great show, but the price of admission was simply too high.

Fiamma

www.brguestrestaurants.com/restaurants/fiamma_new_york

206 Spring Street

New York, NY 10013

(212) 653-0100

[Food:2/5]

I’ve consumed a lot of barbeque over the years. Whether due to my husband’s Southern roots, his master skills with a smoker, or trips to Texas and other points South, it has been a craving I seek to quell. Despite my affair with slow-cooked meat, I’ve never been drawn to it in Manhattan. It somehow feels misplaced amidst the skyscrapers and concrete. Nevertheless on a Sunday night in NYC we found ourselves at Hill Country, a behemoth of an establishment serving Texas-style BBQ.

No matter how you feel about the food, you will have fun at Hill Country. They have live music and large screen televisions to watch football games. In true Texas form, diners are encouraged to relax over beer and food. It is no wonder that this bi-level space with seating for over 225 often has a wait for a table. Hill Country’s wooden tables and picture filled walls definitely feel manufactured on West 26^th Street, but it makes for an entertaining and kitschy atmosphere.

The serving style promotes sampling and second helpings. While drink orders, water service and table clearing are tended to by staff, the rest of Hill Country is cafeteria style (or “market-style” if you’re in the PR business). Separate stations serve meat, hot sides, cold sides, and desserts. You tell the servers behind each counter what you’d like and they hand it over after checking off your order on a menu ticket. The menu tickets are tallied and paid for at the cash register on your way out.

Hill Country has nailed their portion sizes. Three options: Good Eatin’, Heapin’ Helpin’, and Feed Yer Family are small, medium, and large respectively. This range allows you to try lots of menu items without being limited by quantity. Once you’ve tried a few different ribs, slices, and sides you can return for as many rounds as your belt will permit. Meat is served on butcher paper and in true Texas-style form, white bread and crackers are available. Though everything is dry-rubbed, barbeque sauce is provided.

Great barbeque doesn’t try to be great, it simply is great. This might sound like an inane statement, but after a barbeque sandwich at the Blue Ridge Pig in Virginia or beef brisket at Rudy’s in Austin, you’d understand. The barbeque at Hill Country tried to be great, but hovered somewhere around good. The Moist Brisket and Jalapeno Cheese Sausage were standouts. The bones in the Beef and Pork Ribs were hard to maneuver, forcing you to scrape the meat with your teeth rather than actually biting into it. This also resulted in mouthfuls with too much salty rub and too little meat. The Market Chicken was very tender and flavorful, but when you are psyched up to consume pork and beef, it somehow felt like a cop out.

We perused the abundance of delectable looking sides, squealed with joy and anticipation, and then felt personally let down by their mediocrity. The Campfire Baked Beans, with bacon and a hint of brown sugar, were the only exception. Skillet Cornbread had good texture, but it was the accompanying Ancho Honey Butter that gave it flavor. The Corn Pudding was gloppy and void of sweetness. The Sweet Potato Bourbon Mash was missing gusto. The Macaroni and Cheese was rubbery and uninspired. The Deviled Eggs featured miniscule amounts of filling overpowered by chipotle seasoning. Both my Mother-in-law and I make a better Green Bean Casserole (and no, it is not difficult).  

We were painfully full, but couldn’t leave without at least trying a couple of desserts. The Banana Cream Pudding was creamy and delicious. The German Chocolate Sheet cake was dense in mass, but not in flavor.

If you haven’t had great Texas-style barbeque, you will enjoy Hill Country immensely. If you’ve been lucky enough to experience barbeque in the real Hill Country, you’ll appreciate it for what it is: good BBQ in Manhattan.

Hill Country

www.hillcountryny.com

30 W 26th Street

New York, NY 10010

(212) 255-4544

[Food:3/5]

Supper’s simple and homey moniker aptly depicts what you can expect at this East Village eatery: straightforward Italian fare and incredibly reasonable prices.  

The open kitchen fills most of the anterior room while exposed brick and wooden tables, some of which are communal, provide the décor in the larger, back room. Despite these convivial surroundings and delectable dishes, on a busy night you’ll be hard pressed to feel relaxed. Supper doesn’t accept reservations and waiting for a table over drinks in the adjacent bar was a calm and pleasant experience. However, once seated in the restaurant we felt rushed. We would tell one impatient waiter we weren’t yet ready to order only to have another one approach us moments later with poised pen and pad. These same servers were visibly annoyed when we postponed ordering dessert, even though we had only occupied the table for just over an hour. The food came out at lightning speed, with entrees appearing before appetizers had even been finished. At times the music was so loud I thought it might also be a tactic to shoo lingering diners from their seats.

The menu layout, or rather, the lack thereof, favors disarray over simplicity. The permanent, laminated menu was a haphazard construction. One side featured the regular list of dishes; the other side listed specials by day of the week. To further muddle things, there was also a separate handout with additional daily specials. Entrees and appetizers end up uncategorized and listed in multiple places.

Straightforward dishes are often difficult to execute flawlessly, and Supper deserves credit for excelling at many simple preparations. A generous starter portion of Borrata mozzarella was so soft and creamy it was as if the gooey pile had been melted. Pillows of spongy and light Gnocchi All Aglio D’orata were some of the better potato dumplings I’ve had in long time. The Shaved Mushroom, Celery, and Pecorino salad consisted of all raw ingredients. Unfortunately, the result was bitter and unharmonious.

When my friend, one of the most adventurous eaters I know, ordered the Spaghetti al Limone I was floored at his seemingly dull choice. It turned out he knew exactly what he was doing. Though the al dente strings of pasta were only dressed in lemon and parmigano reggiano, the dish’s tang and acid were bold and flavorful.

The Veal Scallopine alla Milanese, whose execution is often faulty, was similarly wonderful. The veal was pounded paper thin; the breading a perfect balance of crumb and herb.

After the successful implementation of two classics, we expected the Pappardelle with Peas, Asparagus and Tomatoes to follow suit. It was instead, bland and in serious need of some zip.

Beef Amarone, two short ribs served with polenta and roasted fennel, was the most complex dish we ordered, and the most disappointing. The beef was tough and fatty, as though the braising process had been drastically shortened. The polenta gratin, a square of seasoned cornmeal and cheese, was overcooked to such a level of crispiness that it was difficult to cut.

The Hazelnut Panna Cotta dessert, whose chocolate top is poured tableside, was rich and smooth. The Affogato, which features two scoops of vanilla ice cream doused in hot espresso, was the final reminder that at Supper, simple reigns supreme.

Supper

www.supperrestaurant.com

156 E. 2nd Street

New York, NY 10009

(212) 477-7600

Cash Only

[Food:3/5]

You know you’re dining at a hot spot when a beret-clad Tom Colicchio is seated a few tables away. If I only could have asked about his experience at Allen & Delancey  . . .

Neil Ferguson, a former employee of Gordon Ramsay, helms the kitchen at this cavernous Lower East Side eatery. Unique preparations were different than anything I’ve recently seen on a NYC menu. Ferguson’s menu, devoid of side dishes and salads, was refreshing. Two types of homemade bread were offered at the start of the meal and chocolates were presented with the bill. Despite such amenities, reasonable prices abound. Ferguson is definitely doing something special and unusual at Allen & Delancey, but there was more potential than actual success.

The menu, with inconsistent and misleading descriptions, required some deciphering. It was unclear whether this was an oversight or part of some less-than-brilliant design scheme. Whichever the case, it should be amended. Considerable detail described some dishes, but crucial information was missing from others. Though all of the meat dishes feature their protein prepared in “two-ways,” this fact is only provided for the duck and the lamb. Even more frustrating was the over simplified depiction of the Cabbage, Beef and Onion entrée.

The exposed brick walls, bookshelves, flickering candles, and wooden beams felt natural and cozy, not fabricated. Tabletops for two were close together, situated in a too straight line that didn’t quite gel with the vibe. Velvet booths and four-tops provided a bit more breathing room. Service was professional and friendly, though food emerged from the kitchen at rocket speed and we had to withhold our dessert order to gain some much needed digestion time.

As for the food, many risks were taken, though not all of them paid off.  A gelatinous log of Bone Marrow, topped with a healthy spooning of paddlefish caviar, rests on finely diced shallots and pickles. We were drawn in by the intriguing combination of ingredients whose amalgamation we could not imagine. The flavors didn’t quite meld, proving that our instincts were correct.

A Raviolo, over-stuffed with sweetbreads and bolognese, was better conceived but still had shortcomings. Sweetbreads, normally decadent, were overshadowed by pedestrian ground beef. And despite the carrot and cabbage slaw, the dish lacked acid, leaving one’s mouth with a pasty coating.

The entrees promised exciting mergers of proteins and vegetables, but the quality of meat was sub-par, bringing what could have been exceptional dishes down a level. The Moulard Duck breast, though spiced beautifully, was very tough. An accompanying triangle of foie gras would melt in one’s mouth with fanfare, but a sprinkling of nuts ruined the show. Turnip confit was sweet and silky smooth, but buttered radishes had an odd flavor.

The aforementioned Cabbage, Beef and Onion was a grand presentation of four items: a hunk of aged sirloin, a cabbage leaf stuffed with braised beef, a potato gratin, and an onion stuffed with cabbage. The sirloin was far from tender and the braised beef suffered from the same dryness that haunted the raviolo. The dish craved even the slightest trace of puree or sauce. Anything that might provide moisture.

The desserts were more common, though bacon kissed syrup, served with the Sweet Cream French Toast, and the Whiskey Vanilla Shake that accompanied the Chocolate Peanut Butter Tart, hinted at greatness.

Ferguson is striving for something extraordinary at Allen & Delancey, and if he can attain the heights for which he reaches, the result will be astounding.

Allen & Delancey

www.allenanddelancey.net

115 Allen Street

New York, NY 10002

(212) 253-5400

[Food:3/5]

Union Square Café, Danny Meyer’s first restaurant, opened over twenty years ago. While I am a big Meyer fan (and really, how can you consume NYC food and not be?), embarrassingly I had not dined at his freshman effort, an establishment that ushered in a new era in New York City dining. This quaint café bares the distinct Meyer mark, serving American food with seasonal accents, and it is worth a visit, if only to see where it all began.

Union Square Café has an impressive number of tables, but its tri-level layout creates cozy nooks with more-than-adequate elbow space. Table cloths don’t convey pretention here, but rather an old school charm that is both casual and elegant. The only music is the pleasant din of conversation.  The service is friendly (maybe even a bit too informal) but it feels true to the surroundings.

We sampled an array of starters and entrees, all of which were cooked with expert precision – lamb chops were a deep pink, chicken was moist, and fish was succulent. The only exception was the Farrotto starter. The grains, meant to be al dente, bordered on mushy. It would be unfair, however, if that was all I said about the Farrotto, whose cheesy morsels, laced with the sweetness and acid of balsamic-glazed onions, was otherwise divine. Puree of Butternut Squash, delectably creamy and thick, was much more than a soup. Swirls of Eggnog crème fraiche teased the palate with a hint of nutmeg. Seared Yellow Fin Tuna melted on the tongue, a result of its freshness.

Portion sizes, impressively large, were supplemented with strong accompaniments, some more tantalizing and inventive than others. Spoonfuls of decadent chestnut puree, perfectly sweetened, brought unique flavor to each bite of the light and flaky Cod. The bacon, brussel sprout and turnip mix, on the other hand, felt tired. The moist and flavorful Herb-roasted Chicken could have used a crispier skin, but the savory soufflé of Parmigano Bread Pudding was sublime enough to make up for it. Criss-crossed with char, the Lamp Chops cut as obediently as butter. For Monday night’s special of Lobster “Shepherd’s Pie,” a cover of fluffy but over salted mashed potatoes protected vegetables, lobster meat and lobster sauce. The result was undeniably decadent, but the seasoning could have used an adjustment.

For dessert, a chocolate Budino, with bananas cooked in rum and white chocolate ice cream, was deep and rich, both in color and taste. It was an elegant respite from the all too common lava cake. The Brioche French Toast, a close cousin of bread pudding, was heavenly.

Union Square Cafe

www.unionsquarecafe.com

21 East 16th Street

New York, NY 10003

(212) 243-4020