[Food:4.5/5]

Sometimes, after a restaurant receives the highest of accolades, year after year after year, the food and service slip ever so slightly. At Babbo, even a hint of complacency is undetectable. After ten years, Mario Batali’s Italian is as bold and mouth-watering as ever.

Before last week, I hadn’t been to Babbo in over a year. During this hiatus I had built up the food to such neck-breaking heights, it seemed impossible for the experience to live up to expectations. But Batali and his crew managed to one-up me; the meal was better.

Babbo’s modern Italian menu can be overwhelming. Four sections – antipasti, primi, secondi, and contorni – are filled with tantalizing options. There will likely be a handful of unfamiliar items, some of which you’ll want to try, some of which you won’t. There is tripe. There is testa. There is lamb’s brain.

Informed and friendly servers graciously answer diners’ questions. They’re patient and helpful when you shyly ask, “What is Garganelli?” The answer, small, rolled tube pasta with ridges, is delivered as though you’re the first person to ask such a good question. I’m quite sure you’re not.

There has been much discussion about the rock music that blares from Batali’s iPod. It certainly affects the atmosphere. During my last dinner at Babbo, head-banging AC/DC boomed too loudly as I tried immerse myself in Mint Love Letters with Lamb Sausage. It was hard to be completely wooed.

On this recent visit we were seated in the brightly lit, upstairs dining room where the music was less conspicuous and the atmosphere more relaxed. It felt distant from the pounding music and crowded bar I remember all too well from last time.

Babbo is a lifetime away from red sauce Italian and I often hesitate to recommend it to those who might not appreciate Batali’s culinary greatness. Less exotic pasta preparations, or perhaps a fish, fowl, or meat option from the secondi section of the menu will blamelessly appeal to any diner. At Babbo, even the simplest of dishes are wonderful and the pasta, regardless of filling or sauce, is flawless. But to me, Batali’s heart and true ingenious lies outside the boundaries.

Fennel Dusted Sweetbreads sit in a pool of Sweet and Sour Onions. Sugar and acid render the crispy and savory meat into an almost dessert-like dish. It’s candy and thyroid meeting for the first time. There are fireworks.

While Grilled Octopus graces many a menu these days, Batali’s version, soaked for days in Limoncello before being charred, trumps all in flavor and tenderness.

Babbo’s homemade pasta dishes are also triumphant. The ravioli casing, so thin and translucent, becomes a window into the dark and succulent filling. This time, we chose Beef Cheek with Crushed Squab Liver and Black Truffles. Last time, it was the Goose Liver. Both times, it was decadent and delicious.

A seemingly tame choice, Prosciutto San Daniele, was cured so delicately, the dried slices of meat were elevated to another level.

Whole Grilled Branzino, perhaps the most benign dish on the evening’s menu was seasoned, grilled and filleted to perfection. Sure you’ve had this fish before, but just not this good.

Scrumptiously roasted Funghi were served room temperature and then drizzled with peas and caramelized onions while a traditional preparation of Veal Medallions were pounded thin and served with preserved lemon, capers, and rapini. Both were robust in flavor and expert in preparation.

Grilled Guinea Hen was not as mind-blowing as the version at Batali’s long, left behind Po, but the moist fowl did not disappoint.

The desserts were also successful, holding court on their own without being too showy.

The wild strawberries that topped the Crostata were the juiciest and sweetest I’ve had all season and it took great restraint not to lick the plate on which the creamy Cheesecake drizzled with Maple Syrup arrived.

Savory to sweet, simple to complex, Babbo is one of the best start to finish meals you’ll have in New York.

Now all you have to do is get a reservation.

Babbo

http://www.babbonyc.com

110 Waverly Place

New York, NY 10011

212.777.0303

[Food:3.5/5]

At Mas, the charming West Village restaurant named after the French word for farmhouse, the French countryside is nestled into the arms of urban New York. They make a wonderful couple.

You could walk by the doorway a dozen times before realizing a restaurant lives behind the wooden plaque where the word Mas is elegantly scripted into its grain.

From the moment you enter, it’s as though you’re dining at the home of dear friends. The staff smiles so genuinely and serves you so hospitably, you wonder if they think you might be someone else; someone they know.

Their friendly demeanor does not impact their consummate professionalism. Dishes were delivered and plates were cleared impeccably, and without stiff grandeur or unnecessary flourish. If you’re not paying attention, you’ll miss how the amuse bouche plate is placed on top of the charger plate just-so, perfectly aligning the leaf design that decorates both. Only after the meal is over will you realize the water glasses were never less than half full.

Natural materials, like stone and wood, are used stylishly to create a contemporary atmosphere. Warm touches, like quilted pillows on the banquet seats, provide homey accents.

At Mas, organic vegetables and proteins are the backbone of French-inspired cuisine that highlights fresh ingredients rather than sauce work and cream. And though there are a few mainstays, Chef Galen Zamarra’s daily menu reflects the best the Green Market has to offer.

The menu looked as intuitive as the design and the service felt, but the execution was not always as successful.

While the meat in the Pork Pate was of the highest quality and its foil of cherries delicious, it tasted like a low fat version. I want my pate to be creamy and decadent. Mas’ was taut and unspreadable.

The ricotta that filled the Baked Cannelloni was luscious, but the pasta that encased it, too thick and al dente. The dish strived for delicacy, but only achieved mediocrity.

Braised Pork Belly was either poorly executed or poorly conceived. The belly’s scrumptious fat was gelatinous rather than crispy and caramelized, reducing the dish to a somewhat bland rendition.

But rest assured, Mas achieved some culinary feats significant enough to bring me back to dine in the future.

Perhaps the night’s biggest triumph was the Yellowfin Tuna appetizer. Hot butter is poured ingeniously over melt-in-your-mouth fish. Without ever touching a pan, the tuna boasted a seared and buttery top. A sprinkling of crispy shallots finished the dish superbly.

Goat cheese sat between sliced Roasted Beets and was showered with crushed pistachios. It was like a beet and goat cheese Chipwich. Easily the most creative presentation I’ve seen of these delicious, but prolific ingredients.

Roasted Sea Scallops had their tops scored before cooking, maximizing their brown and crispy surface area. The scallops were cooked flawlessly and the corn and onion compote they sat atop was sweet, summery, and sublime.

Only one of our desserts shined. Blueberry Cheesecake with a Toasted Buckwheat cake was out of this world while a Rhubarb Crumble and Valrhona Chocolate Torte were good, but far from great.

At Mas, you’re encouraged to create your own tasting menu, make appetizers entrée size, and vice versa. It’s just another way that Mas invites you in and includes you in the atmosphere.

There isn’t a scene to be found at Mas. There is an experience.

Mas (farmhouse)

http://www.masfarmhouse.com

39 Downing Street

New York, NY 10014

212.255.1790

[Food:4/5]

Park Avenue Fall opened in 2007 as the first turn of this truly seasonal restaurant. Four times a year both the interior design and menu would be over-hauled to reflect the current season. I’d read Fall’s excellent reviews and listened to the raves of Winter from friends and family. When Summer’s tide rolled in I could no longer resist.

Chef Craig Koketsu and the AvroKO design time have pulled it off . . . swimmingly. Park Avenue Summer has achieved, maybe even invented, whimsical elegance.

The festive and sophisticated atmosphere at Park Avenue Summer includes a wall of rosé-filled wine bottles (especially made for the restaurant, of course), a whitewashed wood ceiling, and wire lanterns. White tortoise shells decorate yellow-paneled walls. Tall grass and willowy fronds run down the middle of the room. You could swear there’s a breeze. You wiggle your toes, surprised not find sand beneath the table.

For the Amuse Bouche, a small box of grass arrives with skewered cubes of spicy yogurt topped watermelon emerging from the green blades. Cheddar cheese and chile biscuits, sweet corn brioche, and flat breads fill the breadbasket. Who knew summer tasted so good?

Fried Ipswich Clams, ordered from the fanciful Picnic Menu, were served in a red-and-white-checked paper carton and ceremoniously ruined us for any other fried clams we might eat this summer. Two Jersey Sauces – tomato aioli and mustard aioli – are professionally squirted into white ceramic dishes. Paper-thin pinwheels of fried lotus roots were discovered, like a treasure, at the bottom of the carton.

Maine Peekytoe Crab “Gazpacho Style” was a deconstructed version of the seasonal soup. A mound of crab and a stack of julienned vegetables sat side-by-side in a shallow pool of chilled and robust tomato soup.

An array of colorful beets and tomatoes were dressed with ginger and labne yogurt. It was a simple Baby Beet Salad, but also a refreshingly light and delicious one.

Soft Shell Crab was smartly balanced by avocado, strawberry, passion fruit, and white soy. The sweet and soft fruits were superb foils for the salty and crunchy crab.

And those were just our starters . . .

Park Avenue Bouillabaisse delivered on the promise of its posh address. Only the “good stuff” is served in this uptown version – prawns, sea scallops, and halibut. Poured from a thermos, the saffron-based soup’s aroma enveloped our table. As soon as my tablemates got a whiff, pieces of corn brioche were dipped amongst the fish and seafood. It tasted just as good as it smelled.

Sweet and succulent meat was pulled effortlessly from the Grilled Langoustine shells. In my book, they beat out lobster, shrimp, and prawns any day of the week.

Dr. Pepper Braised Ribs, also ordered off the Picnic Menu, was delivered with a tall glass of unadulterated Dr. Pepper and a side of not-too-sweet peach slaw. The meat fell off the bone. The deep-colored sauce was finger licking worthy.

Once my husband had seen the Veal Chop delivered to our neighboring table he closed his menu. Have I mentioned I’m married to a very smart man? The meat was perfectly cooked and seasoned. None of us could recall a better veal chop.

Though the portion sizes at Park Avenue Summer do not warrant side dishes, they’re hard to resist. We opted for the Stuffed Squash Blossoms, fried in a tempura-like batter and filled with creamy cheese.

To say Richard Leach does the desserts would be a gross understatement. He creates them. His sweet inventions are as much for the eyes as for the taste buds.

The Chocolate Cube, a hard-shelled rectangle, was filled with caramel-cinnamon mousse and pieces of devil’s food cake. A scoop of ancho-chile gelato added cold and spicy punch.

Cherry halves and cherry sorbet spruced up the cannoli-style rice pudding. The dish was aptly called Fresh Cherries, Toasted Rice Pudding & Cherry Sorbet. It was also aptly delightful.

Though usually sad to see Summer go, I find myself suddenly excited for Fall.

Park Avenue Summer

http://www.parkavenyc.com

100 East 63rd Street

New York, NY 10021

212.644.1900

In the next ten days I’ll be dining at three of Manhattan’s top restaurants: Babbo, Park Avenue Summer, and Mas Farmhouse. In deference to my gastronomic future, this week I’m taking a break from my usual-style review to opine on my favorite Manhattan treat:

The.
Best.
Banana Pudding.
Ever.

If you haven’t heard of Magnolia Bakery, you’d be wise not to admit otherwise. The small confection shop hit the mainstream when it was featured in an episode of Sex and the City and has since been mentioned in many a television show, movie, and even a SNL skit. At almost any time of day, a long line of sugar-seekers wraps around the corner of West 11th Street.

While most customers make a beeline for the self-serve cupcake section of the bakery, in the know sweet tooths head to the counter for Magnolia’s Banana Pudding. Have I mentioned it is the best Banana Pudding ever? It is worth a wait on line. It is worth a subway trip. If you bring it to a friend’s or serve it to guests, you’re guaranteed hero status.

A healthy dose of vanilla wafers are softened by sweet pudding.
Slices of banana are perfectly ripe.
Every bite tastes like heaven.

But I must warn you: it’s addictive. Once your spoon digs in, it’s hard to stop it from returning to the carton, again and again. Once you’ve tried it, you’ll crave it. You’ll simply have to have it. And don’t even consider getting the smaller size carton. You’ll only regret it. I promise.

Magnolia Bakery

www.magnoliacupcakes.com

401 Bleecker Street and 200 Columbus Avenue

Open Until 11:30pm on Weekdays

Open Until 12:30am on Friday and Saturday

[Food:2.5/5]

From afar, TBar Steak and Lounge could easily be mistaken for a cruise-wear retail store; its orange awning glows brightly on an otherwise muted stretch of Third Avenue.

The space was called The Lenox Room before a renovation last summer. An updated interior with soothing green tones, patterned upholstery, dark wood, and the flamed-colored awning calls to a younger clientele. The makeover was a success as TBar is usually packed with stylish Upper East Siders.

Despite the hipper interior and increased noise level, Chef Ben Zwicker still delivers a diverse menu of solidly prepared food. In a city where steak houses often translate into stark atmospheres, limited menus, gruff service, and mostly-male patrons, TBar has carved out a niche for itself that couldn’t be more aptly suited for the UES.

A raw bar selection, salads, and seafood dominate the Appetizers. Classic Chopped Caesar was elegantly topped with a fried, wonton-like chip, but the lemony taste would not have satisfied someone craving a more creamy dressing. Black Angus Steak Tartar, formed into a hefty square, had just the right balance of mayonnaise, capers, and seasoning.

Lighter dishes, including a handful of fish options and the T-Bar Chopped Salad that can be topped with chicken, NY Strip, or grilled shrimp, are tempting meat alternatives. The shrimp atop freshly cut lettuce and vegetables was laced with charcoal flavor and conveniently cut into bite-sized pieces. Veal Schnitzel Holstein and Rigatoni Alla Bolognese will also have their followers.

In the Steak Bar part of the menu, the usual suspects are available, as are a Veal Chop and Berkshire Pork Chop. The 48 oz. Porterhouse for two was excellent. A charred and well-seasoned ring of flavor encased the tender and flavorful beef. It could easily compete with its brethren at other NYC steakhouses.

While the succulent Berkshire Pork Chop was well-cooked, its blackened salt crust was too thick. Too many bites were overpowered by the brininess.
Similar to any respectable steak house, side dishes are also available. Slightly bitter Broccoli Rabe was sautéed with garlic and olive and oil. Too much salt ruined an earthy mélange of mushrooms.

The first three items on the dessert menu – the Strawberry Sundae, the Banana Parfait, and the Chocolate Sundae – seem like pricey options at $14 each, but their cost is commensurate with their size. Served in fish bowl equivalents, you’ll need at least three diners to devour one of these gargantuan confections. The Strawberry Sundae, with shortcake, meringue, cream, and strawberry ice cream, was sweet and refreshing.

TBar Steak and Lounge’s descriptive moniker makes good on all its promises. If you live nearby, it might make your semi-regular rotation, and if you find yourself in the neighborhood, it can be worth a visit.

TBar Steak and Lounge

www.tbarnyc.com

1278 Third Avenue

New York, NY 10021

212.772.0404

[Food:2.5/5]

Mia Dona had been on my dining “hit list” since it opened in February. A Friday night dinner with my UES-dwelling and Italian-food-loving parents seemed the ideal opportunity to try out Michael Psilakis and Donatella Arpaia’s latest effort.

This is Psilakis and Arpaia’s second Italian collaboration (though they are also partners in Kefi and Anthos), and a more casual reincarnation of its predecessor. Their first Italian, Dona, which opened in 2006, closed after less than a year due to rental woes.

Mia Dona, fashioned like a home, is meant to foster a relaxed atmosphere for a family meal. The three dining areas in the long-and-narrow space are designed as individual residential rooms. We were seated in the would-be library, decorated in light-colored wood and bookshelves. Ironically, the noise level was raucous. Tables are only inches apart and the ceilings are claustrophobically low.

If the Appetizers and Entrees were competing in the Mia Dona Olympics, the first courses would be awarded the gold medal while the Entrees would be lucky to receive the bronze. The disparity between the two courses was so immense that my husband deemed our experience “The Tale of Two Kitchens”.

The Appetizers were well-seasoned and intricate without being fussy.

A Spiedini starter consisted of skewered quail, merguez, sweetbreads, pork involtini, and lamb polpetti. The pork and lamb were memorable, if not triumphant.

Feta cheese and a tangy, piquillo pepper vinaigrette balanced a delicate and tender Grilled Octopus.

Two specials were independently victorious. Tempura fried squash blossoms over grilled romaine was inspired while a crock of creamy and light sheep’s milk cheese served with grilled bread succeeded in its rustic simplicity.

If only our meal had ended when those empty plates were cleared.

For the Entrees, the lack of protein diversity was incredibly disappointing. Chicken Paillard, Hangar Steak, and four fish dishes were the only non-pasta offerings. Where was the veal and lamb I had read so much about? Even the signature rabbit (albeit an appetizer) was conspicuously missing.

Delicate fish was overwhelmed by too many potent accompaniments. Broccoli rabe, sausage, clams, and sundried tomato beleaguered the Roasted Black Bass. Taste buds were assaulted by alternating bites of spice, salt, and bitterness. Even on its own the bass was briny and over-seasoned; as though someone realized the fish had been trumped and tried to shore it up.

Roasted Skate fared slightly better, but paring down the bed of ramps, pancetta, fingerling potatoes, and escarole would have given the well-cooked fish center stage. Instead of allowing the accompanying flavors to complement the fish, the skate had to settle for being merely another accessory on the plate.

Grilled Swordfish, escorted only by delightful cauliflower caponata and crunchy fiddlehead ferns was a step in the right direction. But finally, just when the fish had been given its proper due, it was dry and overcooked.

Surprisingly, the Chicken Paillard, adorned with strawberries, spinach, and bacon, was the table’s best entrée. The moist chicken was pounded to perfection and the sweet and salty components also lent acid, texture, and color.

A side of limp Grilled Asparagus was dressed elegantly with parmesan and lemon.

After the dissatisfying entrees (two of us didn’t even finish our dishes) we almost passed on dessert, but eventually opted for the Apple & Almond Napoleon. While the custard filling was velvety and light, neither the apple nor almond flavors were apparent.

With no entrée over $24, Mia Dona’s prices are reasonable and if everyone at your table orders an Appetizer and no one gets fish, you just might like this place enough to return. For us, the excellent beginning was not enough to overcome the mediocre middle and lackluster ending.

Mia Dona

www.miadona.com

206 East 58th Street

New York, NY 10022

212.750.8170

[Food:3.5/5]

Achieving balance, subtlety, and consistency are the ambitions of many restaurants, though such lofty goals are often elusive. The Harrison could be the poster-child for all three. Amanda Freitag, who has been running The Harrison’s kitchen since January, should be crowned the Queen of Equilibrium. Just the right touch of acid, salt, spice, and texture leaves her dishes poised like perfectly balanced seesaws. But for anyone not paying close attention, Freitag’s performance can easily be overlooked.

The Harrison, which occupies a prime corner lot in TriBeCa, has an atmosphere that matches its food. It’s charming and understated, but a level of concentration is required to appreciate most of its nuances. Somehow the dark wood floors and white wainscot walls disappear into obscurity. If you didn’t study the surroundings, you might never be able to describe them. For some, this is masterfully crafted décor. For others, the subtlety will be unexciting.

The list of Appetizers, longer than that of the Entrees, showed a bit more flair and inventiveness than the larger courses.

A refreshing salad of finely chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, and feta wonderfully complemented the flavor and texture of Char Grilled Octopus. The salty cheese was an unexpected success.

Rectangular shaped Crispy Shrimp would be more aptly described as a shrimp cake. But rest assured, there was no filler here. The panko flakes were crunchy, the lemon aioli was creamy, and the old bay added kick. Blissful symmetry.

Red beets were julienned and mixed with finely ground pistachio crumbs before being artfully piled like matchsticks atop velvety robiolina cheese. While the beets sacrificed some moisture for appearance, Beet Salad never looked so original.

The sole appetizer misstep was the Yellowfin Tuna whose silky texture and light taste were completely overpowered by an array of pickled vegetables.

There was only one off kilter entrée, a stack of Grilled Trout filets that looked much more balanced than it tasted. While forkfuls with horseradish and sliced almonds effectively jazzed up the bland fish, they were too far and few between.

Expertly Grilled NY Strip Steak was encrusted in marrow butter. The rich exterior carried every bite of the thick-cut meat while a bed of tuscan kale added just a hint of tartness.

If ever a dish could be called feminine, it would be the Slow Cooked Arctic Char. The sweet-tasting and candy-colored fish was delicately foiled by tangy and acidic, pink grapefruit. Honshimeji mushrooms provided much needed chew to a dish whose other components melted in your mouth.

No matter what you order, get a side of Duckfat Fries. No explanation necessary.

The desserts, striving for the balance the savory dishes achieved so flawlessly, couldn’t make the leap. A dark chocolate mousse served in a salty pretzel crust had the right idea, but the chocolate needed more depth and the crust, less salt. Similarly, a parfait of chocolate, marshmallows, and cookies fell flat. It needed more crunch.

Perhaps we needed the desserts to remind us that though Freitag’s dishes appeared effortless, her food deserves much applause.

The Harrison

www.theharrison.com/harrison.html

355 Greenwich Street

New York, NY 10013

212.274.9310

[Food:4/5]

At Yakitori Totto, Japanese street food goes organic and the words “chicken on a stick” will never be the same. When the first skewer arrives you’ll start compiling a list of people you want to bring to this Midtown West secret. You’re not the only one. A long wait, along with an easy-to-miss doorway and a steep flight of stairs are the obstacles between you and skewer heaven. All of them are worth overcoming.

The chicken on a stick, Yakitori Totto’s specialty, comes in many varieties, is organic, and is cooked to juicy perfection. There are crowd-pleasing options like Negima (thigh and scallion) and Mune (breast with wasabi), as well as more daring chicken choices – the neck, heart, and knee bones – just to name a few. We sampled a skewer of Seseri (neck) and were not disappointed with the succulent morsels. There are only limited quantities of some of the more adventurous choices; when you order, your server will yell to the chefs behind the counter to make sure it’s still available.

Three to four pieces are stacked on each $3-$4 stick. Take the plunge and order chicken soft knee bone; at these prices there are no excuses not to be daring. In addition to all the various chicken parts, there are also skewers of pork, seafood, vegetables and beef. All the meat is premium quality and the vegetables are fresh. Each stick is deliciously seasoned or sauced. Try the Kuro Buta (pork) skewers with lemon and mustard and don’t miss the eggplant with miso paste.

We rounded out our stick-centric order with Zaru Tofu (cold tofu in a bamboo basket), Tako No Kara Age (deep-fried octopus), and a tuna sashimi and avocado salad. Three salts accompanied the tofu, leaving the ability to adjust its refreshing taste at the diner’s fingertips. Tempura-like crumbs, blended to a fine dust, encased the octopus in non-oily and crispy perfection. While I couldn’t keep my chopsticks out of the tuna and avocado salad, it was too sweet for my dining companion.

Popular Japanese rice and noodle dishes are also available. We chose to leave room for dessert and didn’t regret it.

The Ice Banana, frozen slices of banana served in a bowl of coconut milk and tapioca, was breakfast cereal on steroids. It was unique, it was refreshing, and it was the ideal level of sweetness. Creamy apricot kernel tofu was also divine. Silky tofu was imparted with apricot flavor, transforming it into a guiltless dessert that was rich and flavorful.

Yakitori Totto doesn’t take reservations after 7pm and the wait can be up to 45 minutes on any given night. But once you sit down, the atmosphere is relaxed, and the service incredibly pleasant and friendly. The wait? Worth every minute.

Yakitori Totto

251 West 55th Street

New York, NY 10019

212.245.4555

[Food:2.5/5]

This week I dined at Bar Q, yet another new NYC restaurant with the word “bar” in its name. Chef Anita Lo’s Bar Q however, manages to take the semantics game to a whole new level. There’s a small bar used to shake and stir shmancy cocktails. There’s also a raw bar of sashimi and shellfish. And then, lo-and-behold, there is Q. Q, you ask? Yes, as in BBQ; contemporary Asian style.

The vibe: uber-cool. The décor: uber-modern. All-white furnishings and glowing light orbs make you feel like you’re in a Jetson’s episode. With no sound-absorbing materials and ceilings that are lower than a post-war apartment’s, the noise level: uber-loud. Though seated in a booth, a white leather enclave that was a wee bit cozy for a foursome, we had to raise our voices to be heard over the din.

Lo could teach some of her fellow NY restaurateurs about service; it was impeccable. From the greeters at the host’s stand, to the unfailing water service, to one of the more professional and friendly servers I’ve had in recent memory.

The menu will get your heart pounding. Tea smoked fish and meat, numerous types of ribs, miso, and kimchee abound. The menu is not large, but four of us still had trouble narrowing down our order.

The Kumomoto Oysters, accompanied by four “dipping” sauces, were first to arrive. How to make a Kumomoto even better? Spoon on some of Lo’s yuzu.

Then came the food, a parade of beautifully plated dishes on stark white (what else?) dishware. Our taste buds tingled in anticipation. But as the four of us dug in, an awkward silence fell over the table. We wanted so much to love it. We assumed that we would.

A starter of Tea Smoked Salmon, caught in a nova-or-sashimi identity crisis was left to flounder somewhere between lackluster and delicate. It got an extra boost when dipped into the accompanying shot of leek and artichoke soup, but the soup’s funky flavor wasn’t enjoyable on its own.

Lo’s answer to hush puppies? Unagi and Scallion Fritters. They certainly had potential, but with too much fritter and not enough unagi, most bites were nothing more than fried batter dipped in soy.

Baby Back Ribs had a healthy dousing of a deep and earthy sauce. The meat itself was tough; pulling and tearing with teeth were required.

Over-salting was our biggest entrée grievance; it permeated through most of the proteins and their accompaniments. Lucky for us, top-notch water service meant that the long gulps required to calm our over-brined taste buds were readily available.

The Stuffed Spareribs were so tender they were easily cut by the edge of a fork, but too much salt over-powered the flavor of the meat as well as the peanut and Thai basil stuffing.

The Tea Smoked Chicken was moist, tender, and flavorful. It was the best entrée at the table and evidence perhaps, that some small tweaks could correct the seasoning of the other dishes.

The Tea Smoked Duck Breast, in contrast, was rubbery and infused with the taste of brine. After doling out bites to the rest of the table, I didn’t even finish the small piece that remained. Considering the name of this blog . . . .

Grilled Australian Loin of Lamb was cut into un-natural looking triangles. Though the meat was rubbed with a nice blend of spices and aromas, the small pieces were over-cooked and dry.

The menu also offers a handful of sides, but be aware, most of them have already been designated to an entrée as an accompaniment. The duck breast, for example, comes with a healthy portion of sesame noodles; the lamb, with two hefty squares of the Garlic Fried Milk. Our server let us know, enabling us to switch our order to a half portion of Grilled Eggplant, a beautiful and tasty stack of miso-glazed slices.

Regardless of how you do it, make sure you try the inventive and delicious Garlic Fried Milk. Silky, tofu-textured cubes are lightly battered and fried. It showcases Lo’s capabilities.

A couple years ago I had a blissful meal at Anita Lo’s first restaurant, Annisa, where I was impressed by her unique flavors, balanced dishes, and elegant presentations. Bar Q just might have the potential to reach a similar level.

Bar Q

www.barqrestaurant.com

308 Bleecker Street

New York, NY 10014

212.206.7817

[Food:2/5]

The name implies a place that is both down-to-earth and down-home. Cookshop’s Americana menu of simple, appealing dishes born from regional ingredients confirms the idea. You sit back in your rustic wooden chair, admire the large dining room with the open kitchen in the back corner, and smile; you’re confident this is going to be a meal to remember. Unfortunately for us, these moments of anticipation were some of the evening’s only highlights.

There was a dichotomy between the efforts spent hand selecting local products and the lack of thought applied to crafting them into dishes. If there was care put into the creation of Cookshop’s dishes, it wasn’t apparent the night we dined there. Clean flavors were ruined with too much salt. Dishes that needed punch wallowed in blandness. Protein preparations that sounded intriguing were lackluster. Even our server, salty and unprofessional, reflected the food.

Penance for seating us half an hour late for our reservation was a free sampling of Cookshop’s Snacks (a separate category from Starters). Two of the Snacks were the most flavorful and tantalizing of our entire night’s savory dishes. Veal anticuchos were intensely meaty and decadent while Chicken nuggets encrusted in honey and nuts were addictively sweet and crunchy. Though Deviled eggs used to be a menu novelty, now chefs have to worry whether or not their southern-inspired treats will stack up against the competition. Cookshop’s did not. Fried hominy was schizophrenic; some bites tasted fresh from the fryer and well spiced while others were painstakingly chewy and salty.

It was a fitting kick-off.

A starter of Rabbit rillettes was devoid of the salt and fat-rendered texture normally associated with the dish, leaving it to taste and look like a shredded rabbit salad.

The piquant harissa under the starter of Seared Montauk squid was tasty, but didn’t have enough flair to uplift the uninspired dish.

A special entrée of Vermont lamb was so off in flavor and texture it was close to inedible. It was difficult to determine whether the meat itself, or its preparation, had been its undoing.

While the exterior of the Hampshire Pork Chop was rubbed generously with a smoked chili-sauce and a side of red cabbage provided acidic balance, there just wasn’t enough flavor to carry the slightly over-cooked and thick cut of meat.

Maine sea scallops rested on a salty tomato sauce that overpowered the delicate shellfish. The accompanying roasted fennel, which showed no signs of doctoring, was excellent.

The Hudson Valley rabbit duo was the table’s winner for taste, but the loser in presentation. A proficiently grilled and well-seasoned leg and caul-wrapped loin were served over creamy polenta, but a dousing of sauce transformed the plate into a pile of mush.

The Butter Pecan Sundae with layers of butterscotch sauce, white chocolate blondie, salted pecans, and a topping of whipped cream achieved where the rest of the meal had failed: harmonious and delicious flavors and textures. It was the high note of an otherwise forgettable meal.

Cookshop

www.cookshopny.com

156 10th Avenue

New York, NY 10011

212.924.4440

[Food:3.5/5]

If someone read you a sampling from Bar Blanc’s menu and asked you to guess its origin, you’d likely offer a list of West Village dining favorites. At first listen, the food sounds familiar. There’s a Boston Baby Lettuce Salad as well as Organic Greens in the handful of appetizers. A Striped Bass and an Organic Chicken Breast are part of the dozen-long list of entrees. And there are of course, the requisite side dishes. But if you look closer and take the time to examine the details, Bar Blanc starts to look, feel, and taste a little different.

Much has been written about the semantic trend of including the word “bar” in a restaurant’s name and enough of them have popped up in recent months to warrant some pause (Bar Q, Bar Milano, Bar Boulud just to name a few). It is hard to believe the claims of those who find the word misleading. Does anyone really stumble into any of these highly anticipated NYC up-and-comers thinking they’re in for a night of drinking and greasy finger food? To me, the word implies a more relaxed, cooler atmosphere, but not a place where the food has excuses.

The long and narrow, West Village space bustles with a hip clientele who match the modern-meets-retro interior design. White leather banquettes and a gleaming white marble bar top are the highlights and the focus of the namesake. The tables are packed in and it can get a bit loud, but you’re at a bar, what else were you expecting?

The co-owners and Chef Cesar Ramirez all met while working at Bouley where Ramirez was clearly paying attention. His dishes demonstrate great thought and attention to detail. There wasn’t a dish we didn’t enjoy.

My misconceptions of our server’s youthful inexperience were proven wrong. He was both helpful and attentive. My husband, who deemed the moderately sized wine list to be “fun,” spent a great deal of time chatting with the well-informed and patient sommelier.

Word play carries over to the menu where many of the dishes are named with too much fanfare and their descriptions include the tiniest of details. Beware: if you order a dish because it promises Baby Leek Broth or Squid Ink, you will likely be disappointed at their minimal contribution.

Our appetizers were elegant and tasty. A silky sauce of pickled onions and mustard seeds complemented the delicate Hawaiian Kampachi Sashimi beautifully. The Pan Seared Jumbo Scallop was jazzed up with pork belly and broccoli puree.

An entrée of pig prepared three ways graces the menu as Roast Milk Fed Porcelet. If you can look past the emasculating description and order this pork trio, you’ll be pleased. The glazed pork belly portion is phenomenal, though the Morel Puree too finicky for the hearty dish.

A generous filet of Seared Black Cod in a Saffron Mussel Sauce had intense flavor and good texture. The fish, draped over spinach, made for the loveliest presentation on the table.

The last item listed on the menu screamed for locavore approval: Whole Roasted Free Range Organic Squab. Thankfully the taste of the well-prepared bird and its accompanying sugar snap peas and carrots erased its mouthful of a name, which ironically in trying to explain too much, explained very little. These days, phrases like organic and free range are thrown about so frequently and irresponsibly, they’ve come to mean nothing. But that’s just semantics.

Lucky for Bar Blanc, flavor and taste triumph over words.

Bar Blanc

www.barblanc.com

142 West 10th Street

New York, NY 10014

212.255.2330

[Food:4/5]

The fish is delectable, the flavors are delightful, and the presentations are flawless. To fully appreciate the taste and craftsmanship, conversation should cease while you chew and swallow each bite of heaven. It’s the omakase at Sushi of Gari. My mouth waters at the mere thought of it.

Sit at the sushi bar, sip on sake, and watch the masterful chefs assemble divine, and somewhat radical, preparations of sushi. Gari’s omakase might not be as ground breaking as when it first burst onto the sushi scene, but it is just as fabulous. Gari (nickname for chef Masatoshi Sugio) takes individual pieces of high-quality, melt-in-your-mouth fish (your choice of nigiri or sashimi) and balances its flavor and texture with a unique topping. Even the most purist of sushi lovers will applaud the outcomes.

Gari’s success has allowed for expansion and there are three outposts – the UES original, a hipster UWS site, and a midtown venue. I’ll admit that I’ve never had anything but the omakase at any of Gari’s establishments, but I can’t find a single reason to stray from the innovative nibbles. (Yes, I’ve been to all three and I can confidently report that Gari’s fleet of sushi chefs churn out the same wondrous bites at all of them.)

There’s tuna with tofu paste – the reddish color and silky texture of the fish contrast beautifully with the pale and slightly gritty dollop. A mini-salad of lettuce, vinaigrette, and pine nuts rests atop a glistening piece of red snapper. Salmon is topped with cooked onions and tomato – the vegetables’ heat radiates into the piece of fish below them, softening it further so the entire bite dissolves in your mouth. Golden-eyed snapper is adorned with dried seaweed. An oyster is broiled with rice and breadcrumbs and served hot in the oyster shell; a Japanese rendition of clams casino. Need I go on?

The bites are always expertly balanced – seemingly bizarre toppings pair beautifully with their respective fish. It’s far from cheap, but it’s worth it. After he has prepared about ten pieces of fish for you, the sushi chef will ask if you’d like to keep eating. I’ve never been able to say no.

Sushi of Gari

www.sushiofgari.com

Multiple Locations

[Food:3.5/5]

Much buzz surrounded Dovetail’s December opening and less than six months later, most of the city’s revered restaurant critics have already reviewed the newcomer. The reviews, in a rare show of solidarity, all praised John Fraser’s Upper West Side restaurant. Though my last UWS dining journey to Bar Boulud left me disappointed, I was inspired to give Dovetail a try. My expectations were high but measured. Dovetail delivered.

John Fraser, who most recently worked at Compass, is both the chef and owner of Dovetail. His culinary vision and skills are apparent. Harmonious flavors and seasonal dishes are plated elegantly. Unique touches succeed. Every dish we tasted confirmed that Fraser knows what he is doing; it was only outside the kitchen where Dovetail faltered.

Dovetail is in a townhouse across from the Museum of Natural History. As you reach for the handle on the stylish glass door you feel as though you’ve scored an invite to a fancy soiree. Unfortunately, the feeling ends once you’re seated inside the tablecloth-less and acoustically-challenged space. While Fraser’s cooking style and dishes are cohesive, Dovetail’s atmosphere and service are incongruous with the high quality and high priced food. Exposed brick and wood create an intimate atmosphere, but the noise level and casual table settings detract from the dining experience. Aside from professional uniforms that aptly reflect the upscale menu, the wait staff had neither the skills nor personality to serve Dovetail’s menu. They never smiled; all their faces were blank and uninviting. Throughout the night they emitted the feeling that they didn’t want to be there.

Two amuse bouches, perched delicately on curve-handled spoons, arrived with mini loaves of buttery, cheddar cornbread. From start to finish, the dishes were balanced and well-prepared. Nothing was over seasoned or bland and there wasn’t a combination of flavors that didn’t produce solid results.

The most memorable dish was a simple and beautiful Beet Ravioli starter. Thin slices of red beets were folded to encase a creamy cheese mixture. The Soft-Shell Crab was crisp and seasoned perfectly. Pieces of White Asparagus, arranged in an elegant zigzag, was dressed up with raw salmon.

Surprising ingredients added richness and salt to Fraser’s fish dishes. Maine Sea Scallops came with a hollandaise while the sauce on the Braised Striped Bass was dotted with pieces of bacon. Pistachio Crusted Duck was cooked perfectly. The texture of the crunchy exterior was an excellent match for the gamey meat.

Dessert brought another high note, a delectable and elegant Brioche Bread Pudding. From start to finish, the kitchen executed a lovely meal.

Dovetail

www.dovetailnyc.com

103 West 77th Street

New York, NY 10024

212.362.3800

[Food:3/5]

As we walked under the bright lights of Broadway towards our dinner reservation at Ted’s Montana Grill, I was having some pangs of regret. What self-respecting New Yorker journeys to a chain restaurant in midtown on a Saturday night? The excursion was sparked by our friend’s rave reviews of Ted’s bison burger. If the recommendation had come from anyone else, it would have been dismissed, but this particular foodie pal has a stellar track record. He could not be ignored.

Ted Montana’s is Ted Turner’s innovation. His mission is to serve high-quality, American comfort food in eco-friendly restaurants. The first Ted’s opened in 2002 and now, with over fifty venues nationwide, he’s clearly on to something. The focus of the menu (printed on recycled paper, of course) is 100-percent all natural bison and beef. Though an entire page is dedicated to the bison burgers, the steaks, chicken, and fish options are also appealing. There is a daily blue-plate special and Saturday night discounts on specific wines from the Captain’s list.

Aside from red and white checked tablecloths, there isn’t much ambience in the vast dining room. It seems Turner spent more time making his restaurants eco-friendly rather than photo-friendly; the trade-off was well worth it. Recyclable products (including paper straws and reusable glass bottles) have made Ted Montana’s 99% plastic free.

Though tempted by many of the entrees (Beer Can Chicken and Pecan Crusted Trout to name a couple), we had come for the bison. Leaner than beef, bison has less fat and cholesterol. It also has a distinct flavor; a much earthier taste than beef.

The number of toppings offered for the Bison Burgers was overwhelming. Ted’s has fashioned itself as an “American grill” and we thought it appropriate to pass on the trendier fixings such as avocado and jalapeno in favor of grilled onions and American cheese. We also ordered the evening’s blue-plate special, Bison Short Ribs.

The burger exceeded expectations. It was juicy. It was flavorful. It was better than so many beef burgers I’ve had in this city. The flavor was so rich I didn’t even think to reach for the ketchup (one of my burger stand-bys). Despite its hearty size, it wasn’t a feat to bite through the bison patty and soft, “floated” bun (Ted-speak for buttered and toasted).

The tender short ribs were slathered in a deep, mahogany-colored sauce that didn’t overpower the meat’s wonderful taste. The short ribs seemed to excel, rather than suffer, from the bison’s reduced fat content. The bison peeled away from the bone with an easy pull of the fork tongs. Every bite of dense meat melted in your mouth.

Side dishes were mediocre at best. Hand-cut fries and salt-and-pepper onion rings were disappointments. Country-style green beans bordered on terrible. A bland and tiny roll masqueraded as a biscuit.

Ted’s offers undeniable value. The array of side dishes can be swapped and traded at no extra charge. Soups and salads decrease in price when ordered with an entrée. Our crisp iceberg wedge, drizzled with blue cheese crumbles and dressing, ended up costing just a few dollars.

In a city where beef and high prices prevail, a short subway ride to the plains of Montana was a welcome respite.

Ted’s Montana Grill

www.tedsmontanagrill.com

110 West 51st Street

New York, NY 10020

212.245.5220

[Food:2.5/5]

Robert DeNiro put another stamp on TriBeCa last week with the opening of Ago, the newest outpost of his Tuscan-inspired restaurant helmed by Chef Agostino Sciandri. Ago is strategically located in DeNiro’s Greenwich Hotel, scheduled to open shortly.

It was only the second night Ago had been open, but the bar was crowded with lively patrons and the front dining room was filled. Tiled floors, white tablecloths, mis-matched wooden chairs, and softly lit sconces set in mosaics, create an attractive and comfortable setting. Instead of creating a faux oasis, gigantic windows look out onto the street flaunting your New York City location. How very DeNiro.

Three hostesses greeted us at the door though not one of them offered to take our jackets, leaving me to wonder why this vast space was designed without a coat check. Staff buzzed around us for the entire night as if we were honeycomb. There seemed to be an inordinate amount of service people, each with a separate task. The delivery of the bread basket, the refilling of water glasses, the presentation of dishes, and the clearing of plates were all performed by different people. Genuine smiles graced their faces as “buona seras” escaped from their lips. You continually got the impression that every staff person cared whether or not you enjoyed your dining experience.

The only constant face, our server, was so attentive he bordered on suffocating. It was his authentic Italian accent (most of the staff seemed to hail from the boot-shaped country) and adorable demeanor that made his omniscient presence enjoyable. The only big service snafu was when our entrees arrived before we had finished our starters. Our server, however, was incredibly apologetic and I suspect the error was an early wrinkle that has already been ironed out.

Pasta, fish, and meat dishes with Tuscan roots and New York prices abound. A wood-burning oven turns out three different pizzas that priced at $14-$16, are the best (if not only) deals on the menu. Presentation was baffling. Dishes were plated without sophisticated refinement or rustic candor, leaving them to look like sloppy compositions created without any aesthetic care.

Three skewers of Seppiolini (cuttlefish) baked with an herbed breadcrumb coating lay atop risina beans, oven dried tomatoes, and squid ink. The delicate seafood was tender and the flavors subtle, but the tremendous quantity of beans threw off the balance of the dish as well as its appearance.

Similarly plated, the dainty Quaglia (quail) was splayed on a too-giant pile of stewed lentils. The juicy quail and gritty lentils, however, made a nice pairing.

For an entrée, green Cappelletti (“little hats”) pasta, were filled with ground veal. Dressed simply with butter, sage, and Parmigiano cheese, the pasta cones were savory and moist, but at $24 and closer to a starter size, not worth the cost.

Risotto Di Pesce (seafood risotto), with a reddish hue and tomato base, was more reminiscent of paella or bouillabaisse. We craved creaminess and decadence, though generous amounts of shellfish, especially the meaty mussels, provided some consolation.

Two tired looking filets of tomato and basil infused Branzino (Mediterranean sea bass) were cooked well, but tasted bland. Even the accompanying roasted potatoes needed multiple shakes of salt. With every bite I regretted letting the servers remove the uneaten spoonfuls of beans and lentils from our starter dishes – who knew they would have come in handy.

The eleven-option dessert menu was one of the longer ones I’ve seen recently. Though the Millefoglie Diplomatico was the most sophisticated and elegant looking dish to grace our table the entire evening, it was our least favorite. The delicate layers of puff pastry and vanilla custard were overpowered by the Alkermes liquor.

With a little more focus on plating and a few seasoning tweaks, Ago should be another success for TriBeCa, and DeNiro.

Ago

www.agorestaurant.com

377 Greenwich Street

New York, NY 10013

212.925.3797