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Irving Mill (closed)

December 12th, 2007 · 1 Comment

[Food:3.5/5]

Soaring, wood beamed ceilings and iron chandeliers present a medieval barn-like setting at John Schaefer’s Irving Mill, though the space still oozes modernity. Perhaps the lively bar scene, the hip clientele, or the music, whose perfect decibel-level fills the space between the amber lights and the rafters, is responsible. It is certainly reminiscent of Gramercy Tavern, where Schaefer spent the last ten years, but it exudes a much more chic vibe. Irving Mill almost feels organic, as if it might have come to Schaefer and his partners in a dream. The forced kitsch of suspender-clad wait staff, fashioned to look suitable in this stable-esque atmosphere, quickly snap you back to reality: albeit appealing, the sophisticated scene is manufactured.

The years John Schaefer spent at Gramercy and under Tom Colicchio are apparent, not only in the restaurant’s atmosphere, but also in the cooking style. Farm fresh ingredients, proteins and vegetables alike, are the heart of the menu. While organic fare is far from original in Manhattan eateries, Schaefer has brought some flair to the party. He hasn’t relied too heavily on the tasty origins of his meat and fish, taking obvious time to create accompaniments that are not only interesting, but also well portioned. The absence of a roasted chicken with crispy skin also came as a great relief. Schaefer isn’t trying to re-invent the wheel, but perhaps the spoke-laden, wooden circles that decorate the dining area serve as a daily reminder that he might have to, at least try, and improve upon it.

While large, the room still conveys intimacy. Tables are generously spaced across the wooden floor, giving diners coveted real estate and privacy. The service was sporadic, though it improved significantly over the course of the evening. Our server was rushed and harried while taking our drink orders, but once our order was placed, everything flowed with ease and the waiter’s demeanor improved. The supporting staff was exceptional: water glasses were always full and the arrival and clearing of plates, expert.

Grilled Quail, its meat pink and juicy, lay atop creamy cheddar cheese grits dotted with miniscule rectangles of sweet pepper. Rust-colored chicken liver was generously smeared on soft crostini; its flavor so deep that the salty bite of bacon on each piece of bread was wholly unnecessary, if not distracting. Butternut squash soup was neither creamy nor sweet, the taste of celery root too pertinent.

Cotton candy colored Arctic Char, cooked a succulent medium rare and accompanied by a flavorful and inventive mélange of red wine bathed lentils, cabbage, and cippolinis was somehow delicate and hearty. Deceptively pallid Merluza (or Hake) was packed with flavor under its lightly roasted top. A mix of carrots, brussel sprouts and julienned apple was kissed with balsamic, but was a potentially ill fitted suitor for the fish. The Short Ribs’ beef is rightfully given center stage in a dish where the overly slathered sauce is often the showpiece. Here, beef braised into submission is served with grainy farro and refreshed with a dollop of horseradish cream.

Chocolate Bread Pudding tasted more like a dense soufflé. Layers of peanut butter, chocolate, and caramel made for a whimsical Parfait, but crunchy meringue tasted unnatural, like something a child would add given a free pass at the pantry. Neither was particularly sophisticated or inspired.

Irving Mill was better than I expected. Maybe expectations were low, but maybe, just maybe, Schaefer deserves some credit.

Irving Mill
www.irvingmill.com
116 E. 16th Street
New York, NY 10003
(212) 254-1600

→ 1 CommentNeighborhood: Union Square

Lupa

December 2nd, 2007 · Comments Off on Lupa

[Food:3/5]

As we checked in with Lupa’s hostess for our 8pm reservation, a man ambled from the bar and inquired about the status of his table. “It has been about 20 minutes already and you said it would be 10 to 15,” he told the hostess. She, in a kind voice filled with pity replied, “I am so sorry, sir. I said it would be 10pm to 10:15pm before we will have a table. Not 10 to 15 minutes.” Welcome to Lupa my friend, welcome to Lupa.

Reserving a table at Lupa, Mario Batali’s West Village, Roman Trattoria, is almost as difficult as securing a table at Babbo. Plan ahead (very far ahead) or plan to settle in at the busy bar for a couple of drinks.  Our table was nestled in the back room, definitely the more quiet romantic area of the restaurant. The front room, which also holds the bar, is much livelier. Though our server was friendly and efficient, I’m fairly certain he never smiled.

Lupa’s menu is comprised of Antipasti, Primi, and Secondi. While there are less than ten items in each of the Primi and Secondi sections, one could create a feast from the Antipasti selection of cured meats (Salumi), Vegetables (Verdura), Fish (Pesce), and salads. A unique menu feature is the Glossary that fills the entire back cover. Even if your Italian is top notch, reading definitions and explanations of dozens of ingredients is quite fun. If your Italian is less than stellar, I imagine this handy guide saves your server from an inevitable barrage of questions. In addition to the printed menu, there are at least a handful of specials each night. After much discussion, we opted for three Antipasti dishes: Octopus, Eggplant, and Croquettes of pecorino, escarole, and prosciutto (a special that evening). These would be followed by the Ricotta Gnocchi and another evening special, Stuffed Quail as well as a side of roasted Cauliflower.

Batali is know for his Octopus, which he sequesters for mulitple days in a limoncello viniagrette before further preparation. The Octopus at Lupa was no exception. It was so tender, making its dense and meaty consistency especially impressive. A paste of chickpeas and sorrel coat the legs, imparting flavor and texture. The Marinated Eggplant was laden with olive oil and heavily spiced with red pepper flakes. The spice might be too much for the heat averse to overcome, but we found the oil-soaked, purple slices to be utterly divine. The twelve, marble-sized croquettes have an amazingly soft and delicate inside compared to their incredibly crunchy exterior. While good, these fried balls lacked gusto, and despite their impressive list of flavorful ingredients, they didn’t taste very different than falafel.

The Ricotta Gnocchi, non-uniform in shape and size, are fantastically airy. They come only slightly coated in a red paste of sausage and fennel, the goal presumably being not to overpower their light taste and texture. Unfortunately, someone in the kitchen gave this dish too many turns of the pepper mill, transforming almost every bite from palatable to piquant. The Stuffed Quail special, two quails swollen with prosciutto, pecorino, and bread stuffing, were laid atop polenta and hand leafed brussel sprouts. Skillfully seasoned and cooked, the meat was succulent and not gamey. The Cauliflower suffered from an abundance of salt and red pepper flake.

Genuine Tartufo can be difficult to find, and we were excited to spot it on the dessert menu. If someone was going to produce a solid Tartufo, it was going to be Mario. Flavors of hazelnut and chocolate are augmented with cherry and crushed biscotti. This dish is a winner. We also had an order of the Ricotta with Honey, a terrific combination of ingredients.

Our evening at Lupa was undeniably enjoyable, but though I’m not sure the food is worth a two hour wait. Lucky for us we had a reservation, but the next time I’m craving Italian thirty days in advance, it will be Babbo’s reservation line I’ll have on redial.

Lupa
www.luparestaurant.com
170 Thompson Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 982-5089

Comments Off on LupaNeighborhood: West Village

The Little Owl

November 29th, 2007 · Comments Off on The Little Owl

[Food:3/5]

Big expectations loomed before our dinner at The Little Owl and I was admittedly a bit nervous. So many positive reviews have been written, and spoken, of this tiny, West Village eatery.  Would the beloved chef, Joey Campanaro, offer scrumptious dishes that would also have me raving?

Despite a soaring tin-pressed ceiling, this corner restaurant with less than a dozen tables is truly tiny. The space feels cozy and charming; never tight or confined. The service at The Little Owl is just as homey as the atmosphere. The entire staff was welcoming and attentive, making you feel as if you’re dining at an old friend’s house. You can brave walking-in without a reservation (the hostess actually told me this is the way to go, even though it is almost always a 1.5 hour wait). Or, you can call a month in advance to try and secure yourself a table. I did the latter, and was admittedly disappointed when I was unable to add another person to the reservation without significantly altering the reservation time. Apparently we can’t be cozy and spontaneous.

The Meatball Sliders did not disappoint. Three perfectly seasoned, one and three quarter inch spheres, each packed with ground beef, pork, veal, and pecorino cheese each come on their own soft, artisan bun. The meatballs themselves are incredibly moist and the presentation is inventive. Just the right amount of sauce makes these appetizers fun to eat, without a sloppy-joe type mess. I promise, you’ll never look at a meatball the same way again. The Crispy Artichoke, our other starter, paled in a handful of comparisons. Though I loved the placement of a whole fried artichoke heart atop a creamy broth of parmesan and arugula, the encasing breadcrumb batter was so ordinary (we’re talking out-of-a-diner-deep-fryer-ordinary) that it toppled a dish with great potential. Where was the panko? The beer batter? With so many options, I was truly baffled at the staid selection of coating. While the menu claims the broth to be of the lemon-parmesan variety, the taste of citrus was difficult to detect. The smart addition of yellow tomato, however, contributed much needed acid, making the broth worthy of a few bread dips.

The Pork Chop, over two inches thick, was seasoned and cooked expertly. Fennel seeds, which can be overpowering at times, simply kiss the grill marks with both aromatics and taste. The elegant and powerful combination of parmesan, butter beans, shaved fennel, and delicate wild dandelion wilt together into savory goodness. Plates of Crispy Chicken exit the kitchen as frequently as the Meatball Sliders, and though not usually ones to follow the crowd, we ordered it as well. The golden brown skin was so crispy, it might have come out of the fryer. The dark meat was succulent; the white meat was on the dry side. The accompanying mix of brussel sprouts, sweetened with a bit of sherry, and homefries was an ideal autumn mélange.

We were mildly shocked at the Rice Pudding. Both bowl and dessert arrived still frigid from its post-prepared stay in the refrigerator. Spoonfuls emerged from the bowl molded in congealed coldness. The blackberries and cream were nice additions, but the stark absence of creaminess was too much to overcome.

It’s probably a good sign that the artichoke and rice pudding seemed so out of place. I’ll chalk them up to experiments gone awry. Generally, Little Owl did not disappoint. There were some incredibly unique accompaniments, a gorgeous piece of pork, and a starter that we’ll talk about well into the foreseeable future.

The Little Owl
www.thelittleowlnyc.com
90 Bedford Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 741-4695

Comments Off on The Little OwlNeighborhood: West Village

Shorty’s .32

November 21st, 2007 · 3 Comments

[Food:3.5/5]

Though I’ve walked by this space numerous times, I was still surprised at the petite size of the dining area. Shorty’s .32 does not take reservations, but the four of us strolled in at 7:30pm on a Tuesday and were promptly seated under the unique, if not odd, array of lamp shades that hang from the ceiling. Josh Eden, who is chef and partner of this cozy SoHo restaurant, spent more than a decade working with Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Safe to say, it shows. Shorty’s .32 serves American comfort food with just the right touch of sophistication and pizzazz. Combine the cuisine with overly generous portion sizes, reasonable prices, and friendly service, and you’ve got a recipe for a great neighborhood place.

The only below par aspect of my evening came the moment I sat down. These days, I’ve become accustomed to the whimsical cocktail menus that have become so popular at restaurants. I look forward to perusing a list of homemade concoctions. While Shorty’s has a full bar, they only have a couple of special cocktail options. The Vespa Martini I sipped was inspired. It was the lack of other fanciful choices that was disappointing.

A handful of plump, Grilled Shrimp arrive in a pristine line. Celery root and bacon jus lend balance, and despite their usually distinct flavors, do not overpower the shellfish. Precisely cooked, the table unanimously voted this dish as the favorite starter. Jerusalem Artichoke Soup, intense with the vegetable’s flavor, wasn’t far behind. Quarter-sized potato chips start stacked in a centered pile, though the hot liquid slowly melts them, leaving them soft, starchy and sprinkled throughout the soup. The Crispy Crabsticks, essentially three crab cakes, each in log form, showed no signs of filler and were dense with tender crabmeat. While this homage to fishsticks did provide maximum surface area of fried crunchiness, it did not transform the dish into the quirky creation we were expecting. The dish is heavy, and a portion size adjustment would be wise. The pasta starter, Cavatelli with Arugula and Mushroom Ragout, tasted fresh and homemade, but it lacked the hearty and robust flavors I crave this time of year.

Black Sea Bass, pan seared, was light and flavorful. A bite of the luscious fish along with its accompaniments, quinoa and pickled beets, erased all skepticism I initially had of this unique pairing. The grainy quinoa, with hints of toasted nuts, provided texture. The pickled beets provided just the right amount of acid to cut the dish beautifully. Crispy skin, moist meat, and organic deliciousness made for a superb Roast Chicken. A chicken prepared so well, it alone would bring you back to Shorty’s, again and again. The mashed potatoes were dense and creamy; the chilled green beans crisp and refreshing.  Rich and velvety sauce smothered the succulent Braised Short Ribs. The sauce, the color of dark chocolate, was reminiscent of a Mexican mole. Though served on the same plate, the accompanying macaroni and cheese, browned and bubbling with cheesy goodness, comes in its own mini-casserole dish.

Personally, I would change the name of the Toasted Pound Cake on the dessert menu. Something like Berry Shortcake seems more apt. One of my fellow diners turned his nose up when this seemingly pedestrian confection made our list of two desserts. And, while I’ll admit it sounds a bit boring, it is actually a divine version of the classic, laden with mixed berries and whipped cream. The Chocolate Bread Pudding, perhaps having also undergone a bit of a facelift, tasted more like a dense chocolate cake than the spongy delight we were expecting. The sliced bananas, layered on top, looked too formal and out of place for this casual eatery.

Shorty’s .32
www.shortys32.com
199 Prince Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 375-8275

→ 3 CommentsNeighborhood: SoHo

Po

November 9th, 2007 · 1 Comment

[Food:4/5]

Po has all the characteristics to earn it a spot on your list of favorite casual restaurants. The only obvious problem, at this popular place with fewer than fifteen tables, is that securing a reservation requires some forethought (sometimes up to 30 days of forethought). Ironically, this problem is just further proof of how much is done right in this intimate dining room with white walls lit softly with sconces and a charming, tin-pressed ceiling. You even have to be lucky (or arrive early) to grab one of the four stools at the miniscule bar. However, once you do dine at this delectable Italian, you’ll experience a meal so satisfying and atmosphere so cozy, you’ll be tempted to make your next reservation before you button your coat.

I had actually been to Po a few months ago (before I started writing for this website) and had an experience as equally wonderful to the one I had last night. One of the most amazing things about Po is the generous portions that are offered at affordable and reasonable prices. Service also has a certain charm. Last night, our server was soft-spoken and attentive. Our water glasses were always full and our plates were always cleared at the most appropriate of moments.

Before you even order, a treat is brought to the table in the form of white bean bruschetta. One slice of bread, charred with grill marks, is provided for each diner. Dense and elegant white beans, cooked just past al-dente are dressed in olive oil and garlic and spooned atop the crusty bread. The result is hearty, flavorful, and stunning. After one bite, your fingers fly back to the serving plate for any stray beans that might have fallen from their respective piles. After two bites you’ll strongly consider ordering another plate of these delightful nibbles as your starter.

Privy to the sizable entrée portions, and curious about a couple of the side dishes, we opted for two starter salads to split amongst the four of us. Both salads featured fresh ingredients and a level of inventiveness. The special salad included pine nuts, red onions, radicchio, and a pancetta vinaigrette. The red onions were almost overpowering, but their strength was tempered well by the nuts and radicchio. The pancetta dressing added just the right amount of bacon infused oil and vinegar, though our table of bacon lovers didn’t feel as though the actual bites of pancetta offered a significant addition.  The goat cheese tartufo, ordered off the menu, was a ball of soft chevre well paired with a creative slaw of radicchio and endive. The menu description promised a taste of black olive, and though one could see it, dark and ground, in a neat layer inside the cheese, it was no match for the strong pickled taste of the slaw.

If you dine at Po and the guinea hen is on the menu, I implore that someone in your dining party order this succulent dish. The hen is served as two de-boned legs, each pressed flat into a half inch block by a brick that sits atop them during the grilling process. The result of this unique preparation is moist fowl, dark with flavor. A thin layer of skin is hardly noticeable, though it imparts texture into each bite. Last night, the hen was served with an Autumn-inspired mix of pearl-sized couscous and al dente squares of pumpkin. This accompaniment, with its inherently mild flavors, complements the heft of the meat and provides great balance to the texture of this scrumptious dish. While the guinea hen was the stand-out, both the veal marsala and veal sweetbread entrees sang their own distinct tunes. The marsala arrived in three, ultra-thin, oblong pieces. The veal was breaded only slightly, the coarse coat acting like a sponge for the rich sauce, deep in flavor. There was a slight hint of truffle oil, though unfortunately, not in every bite. Crimini mushrooms and shallots were halved, leaving hearty pieces, slightly-softened by cooking. The veal sweetbreads, cut into quarter-sized morsels were sautéed to a molasses brown. Each bite was delicate but meaty. The mountain of glass noodle-like spaghetti squash adds just the right amount of crunch and sweetness.     

Though the menu described the side of potatoes as pan-fried, we were almost certain that these outstanding cubes were indeed, deep fried. Every bit of surface area was a crispy, golden brown. While the potatoes were also expertly seasoned, the broccoli rabe suffered slightly from a lack of salt. The dark green stalks are sprinkled with breadcrumbs, an aesthetically appealing addition that also lends texture.

In Italian, affogato means “drowned”. When a dessert is served “affogato-stye” is usually indicates that espresso has been poured over the confection. In Po’s affogato, cappuccino is poured into a tall glass, submerging coffee gelato as well as chocolate and caramel sauce. The result is a cold and refreshing liquid that falls somewhere between a drink and melted ice cream. It might aptly be described as the Italian take on an ice cream soda. It was not the best item for sharing, but it was so good, none of us were shy about dipping in our spoons, over and over again. The ricotta cheesecake is soft, delicate and mild. The drizzling of maple syrup and sprinkling of powdered sugar further please the palate.

Need I write more? Go. And go quickly.

Po
www.porestaurant.com
31 Cornelia Street
New York, NY 10011
(212) 645-2189

→ 1 CommentNeighborhood: West Village

Wolfgang’s

November 6th, 2007 · Comments Off on Wolfgang’s

[Food:2.5/5]

Wolfgang Zweiner left his position as head waiter of the famed Peter Luger to open his own namesake steakhouse in the borough of Manhattan. The first Wolfgang’s emerged on Park Avenue in midtown, though last night we dined at his second outpost on Greenwich Street in TriBeCa. Decades at Luger’s certainly showed Zweiner the success a New York steakhouse can enjoy and no one can deny Zweiner’s business savvy for opening meat havens in the two financial meccas of the city. Zweiner has not strayed far (if at all) from the well established formula born out of Brooklyn and as a city dweller, his restaurants do seem more geographically accessible. I haven’t been to Luger’s in years, (a jaunt is currently being planned for December) but my memory and taste buds remember it being better than what we experienced last night. Perhaps imitation is not so easy.

Wolfgang’s design is typical steakhouse: wide-plank wooden floors, white linens, and simple cutlery. WolfgangsAesthetically pleasing arched ceilings are interrupted by medieval-style chandeliers that throw off an unappetizing yellow glow. Acoustics were excellent and it was easy to carry on a conversation. I’ve come to anticipate somewhat gruff service at steakhouses and Wolfgang’s lived up to this expectation. A waiter of few words took our order, haphazardly sloshed wine into our glasses, and spooned side dishes on to our plates with little abandon. The wait staff hustled and bustled about us through the entire meal, constantly checking in on how far along we were in the respective course, conveying the feeling that we should be eating a bit faster. After dessert, however, we were one of two tables left in the dining room and finding someone to bring us the check was nearly impossible.

Caesar salad, tomato and mozzarella slices, and slabs of Canadian bacon arrived at the table mere minutes after they were ordered. The Caesar salad featured meager, seemingly store bought croutons, and a bland dressing that left much to be desired. The buffalo mozzarella had wonderful texture, holding its shape atop vibrant, red tomatoes, but then dissolving in your mouth. The bacon strips are heavy with smoky flavor. The fat doesn’t quite render on these meaty pieces, leaving somewhat chewy, albeit flavorful, slabs of ham.

Wanting to try a few cuts of meat, our table of five opted for Wolfgang’s signature porterhouse, a filet, and a ribeye. The porterhouse was encased in a perfect, black coat of char that never tasted burnt. Cutting into the outer layer revealed beautiful medium rare meat, both savory and tender. The strip loin side of the bone was excellent; the filet side was exceptional. Not nearly as exceptional was the cut of filet prepared and served separately. While the filet was tender, it did not melt in your mouth nor cut like butter; two qualities I covet from a filet. The ribeye was the biggest disappointment and lacked the characteristics that usually make this cut of beef so appealing. Though well marbled, the ribeye was very tough and was dwarfed in flavor compared to the porterhouse. While some might say we erred to stray from the signature porterhouse in the first place, I would argue that all cuts of beef should be excellent in their own rite at a top notch steakhouse.

To me, the sides are an integral part of steakhouse dining. Wolfgang’s side dishes would benefit from some attention and and some serious improvement. With most pieces devoid of crispy edges, the hash browns were undercooked and underseasoned. The sautéed onions were caramelized to a warm brown and soft without being mushy. The creamed spinach had a nice consistency, but lacked richness and depth of flavor.

Before the pieces of pecan and key lime pie were brought to the table, we had a lively discussion surrounding the traits we look for in these particular desserts. As if on cue, the desserts arrived, devoid of all the imperatives we had discussed. The pecan pie was mushy and light on the nuts. The key lime pie had a good, creamy texture, but not the sufficient tartness.

The porterhouse steak was undeniably enjoyable, but I’m pretty certain I’ll venture across the Brooklyn Bridge to see if my memory serves me correctly before returning here.

Wolfgang’s
www.wolfgangssteakhouse.com
409 Greenwich Street
New York, NY 10013
(212) 925-0350

Comments Off on Wolfgang’sNeighborhood: TriBeCa

Savoy

November 4th, 2007 · Comments Off on Savoy

[Food:2.5/5]

Seventeen years ago, Peter Hoffman opened Savoy. A sourcing pioneer, Hoffman was determined to showcase the flavors of local ingredients in his home-style cooking. By surviving an eternity in the ever revolving door of restaurant openings, closings and re-inventions, Savoy has achieved quite a feat and I was anxious to experience food from a kitchen that has lasted close to two decades. The culinary world continues to evolve, providing many more organic and consciously-sourced raw ingredients, both to restaurants and to those who cook at home. Our palates have learned to differentiate between organic and non-organic meat; our keen eyes have begun to recognize the names of farms; our conscious minds ask more questions about the origination of food that is put in front of us. Suddenly, breeds of lamb lovingly raised for consumption cannot stand alone on our plates. We’ve tasted the high quality elsewhere and our matured palates require more from the dishes. Even those who have forged the way must now keep up.  Savoy

Savoy is housed on two floors of a townhouse in SoHo and for dinner you’re well advised to request a table on the second floor. The second floor was abuzz with conversation and aside from the urban crowd, there are moments you might believe you’re tucked away on a country road. The tables situated along the walls are pushed closely together, but we were never bothered by our neighbors. Service was disappointing from the moment we sat down. I constantly hoped it would improve, but it was consistently unimpressive. Our server, though sweet, disappeared for long stretches at a time (a seemingly impossible feat considering the small dining area) and empty plates from each course were left on the table for minutes too long. I simply never felt that she cared about our experience at Savoy.

It is rare to find a sausage that stands boldly on its own and does not require either a pile of grilled peppers and onions or a dip of mustard. Meet Savoy’s Homemade Pork Sausage, plump with moist ground pork and flavor. The Grilled Shrimp were a bit too simple and while promises of pomegranate seeds and citrus heirloom were fulfilled, it was done with such little fanfare that to notice their presence took great concentration. Despite a typical combination of beets and cheese in the Marinated Beet Salad, a reversal of the expected textures and flavors delivered a unique dish. In Savoy’s version, marinade-softened beets, infused with a light, yet slightly salty flavor from the seasoned liquid are paired with a mild fromage blanc. The inclusion of snails in the Red Wine Risotto stood out as the most interesting starter, though whether ill-conceived or ill-prepared, the dish was a disappointment. The risotto lacked creaminess, tasting more watered down than rich and while flavorful, the snails were not a cohesive part of the dish.

The Duck Baked with a Salt Crust was a magnificent piece of meat. It was immensely flavorful and though cooked a bit more to the medium side, was extremely tender. The encasing layer of fat was seasoned well. The accompanying roasted bites of sweet potato provided a good flavor contrast without too much sugar. The amount of velvety parsnip puree was so miniscule it was almost invisible. The Lamb Shank, braised and falling off the bone, arrives in a bowl of juices and cauliflower. I was expecting a heavier dish and while there was something refreshing about a lighter piece of lamb, I found myself wishing the dish was more robust. The Pork Roulade was yet another stunning cut of meat, but the accompaniments of polenta, marmalade and pecans vanished in the first handful of bites, leaving one very large piece of pork, albeit a succulent one, to be devoured on its lonesome. The Brussel Sprouts we ordered as a side were simply roasted and a bit too bitter. The bacon lardons were sufficiently salty, but somehow they did not impart enough flavor onto the brussel sprouts.

To only order one Chocolate and Caramel Trifle was a mistake. The complexity and melding of flavors and textures is nothing short of brilliant. After we all dipped our spoons and experienced a bite of this salty, sweet, creamy and crumbly confection, the mistake was so blatant that we caucused on ordering a second. The Autumn Harvest Crisp, featuring pear, squash, dried cherries and topped with walnut ice cream was the second place winner. The melange of fruits was unique and each flavor emerges on its own without overpowering its partners. Served in a shallow dish, every bite was equal parts fruit, topping, and ice cream. The Mission Fig Tart, which attempts contrast through its peppercorn poached figs and honeyed yogurt, was bland. The taste of peppercorns and honey never came to fruition leaving the dish to fall flat.

While there were a few standout dishes, overall Savoy was good, but far from great.

Savoy
www.savoynyc.com
70 Prince Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 219-8570

Comments Off on SavoyNeighborhood: SoHo

Perilla

October 31st, 2007 · 1 Comment

[Food:3.5/5]

While I did not watch Season 2 of Top Chef in which Harold Dieterle was victorious, I’ll admit to being a bit star struck last night when he provided water service for our table as we dined at his restaurant, Perilla. Donning jeans, a turtleneck sweater and a blazer, Harold helped out the wait staff by filling water glasses, delivering food, and whisking away bills topped with credit cards for payment. While this is surely a sign of the great confidence he has in his kitchen staff, I would have much preferred to see him emerge from the kitchen, chef’s coat spattered in sauce and oil, for a single walk through the restaurant. I’m not naïve enough to think Collichio is chopping veggies in the kitchen at Craft, nor Flay searing steak at Bar Americain, but after only being open for six months, I would have hoped Harold would still be in the back getting his hands dirty.

Harold’s confidence in the kitchen, however, is not misplaced. We did have a noteworthy dinner at Perilla and I would not deter anyone from eating there. If you invite me to come, I’ll probably even join you. Portions were generous, food prices were reasonable, wine list prices were even more reasonable, and really, how can you not cheer for Harold?

Hues of orange, over-hanging lamps, and votive laden tables cast a warm light and feeling through the space. It achieves an atmosphere intimate enough for a date, but lively enough for a larger party. The staff was friendly and professional. The service was attentive. The two women at the door wore genuine smiles.

For an appetizer, we of course, ordered the spicy duck meatballs. The meatballs were moist and while there was enough kick to warrant spice in the namesake, it was not overpowering. The firm gnocchi provided a good contrast to the ground duck, but they didn’t have enough personality to stand on their own. At five medium sized meatballs, the portion size was generous for a starter. We also ordered the apple salad, adorned with walnuts, and blue cheese placed on a couple pieces of Bibb lettuce. The ingredients were fresh, but their typical combination did not provide any surprises for the palate.

For our main courses, the table ordered the roast duckling, guinea hen, and black fish. The duckling arrived in two large slices, each with an ample layer of fat, although the skin could have been crisper. The duckling was cooked a perfect medium rare. A piece of corn pudding wasn’t too creamy or salty and highlighted the meat well. The dish was sprinkled with pomegranate seeds which add a burst of fruit, without being too sweet, when they pop in your mouth. The guinea hen, served de-boned (with the exception of one thigh bone), was also cooked very well. It retained all of its moisture, though similar to the duckling, the skin could have been a bit crisper. It was accompanied by a spaetzle, persimmon and chestnut mix. The homemade spaetzle was browned, but not too buttery. I’m pretty sure I could have eaten an entire side of the chestnuts alone. The black fish was the most disappointing of the group. Caught off the shores of Long Island, our waiter equated it to a sea bass, though after our first bites we all disagreed with his assessment. It was missing all the flaky and light characteristics of good sea bass and instead was quite fishy and a bit over salted. Similar to the starter courses, portion sizes were generous for all the entrees.

The side dishes looked too appealing to pass up and we also ordered a faro risotto and edamame falafel. There was no shortage of cheese in the faro risotto, resulting in a creamy and rich side that went especially well with both fowl. The falafel was very good, but they weren’t dissimilar to the standard chick pea variety, which is probably why we all agreed that the dish wasn’t special. Nevertheless, all five pieces were gone by the end of the meal which might be due in part to the dipping sauce, a slightly addictive tahini. The dish might be better positioned as a starter, rather than a side.

The flavor of peanut butter in the peanut butter parfait we shared for dessert was immense. One of my fellow diners likened it to sticking one’s spoon in a jar of peanut butter. We polished it off, including the accompanying chocolate wafers and a scoop of gelato. But, like many of the other dishes, it was just as billed. No surprises. No unexpected flavors. Perhaps after a season on Top Chef, I wouldn’t want any surprises either.

Perilla
www.perillanyc.com
9 Jones Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 929-6868

→ 1 CommentNeighborhood: West Village

Omen

October 25th, 2007 · Comments Off on Omen

[Food:3/5]

While its name, and the dark building in which Omen resides might be a bit foreboding, once you step inside you’re instantly transported across the Pacific. This establishment, with roots in Kyoto, has an authentic Japanese menu and atmosphere. Warm wood, sliding screen doors, and a welcoming staff invite you settle in and savor the food. But don’t enter this Japanese oasis expecting nigiri and spicy tuna rolls; the only raw fish offering is sashimi. Contemplate one of the Japanese Tasting Dinners as they give you a great sampling of tastes and flavors. Most importantly, remember to bring lots of cash. Omen is pricey and they only accept American Express.

The Crab and Yuba roll, devoid of both rice and seaweed, is unlike any roll you’ve had before. A sweet pea, enveloped by dense and tender crabmeat, is then rolled in fried soy bean curd. A small dip into the pool of vinegar, served on the side in a shallow dish, added the perfect tang of acid.

We opted for the Special Sashimi plate, a combination of tuna, fluke, yellowtail, red snapper, sea urchin, salmon, salmon-roe, and avocado. Having chosen seats at the small counter, we were afforded a view of this dish’s laborious creation. Each piece of fish was cut lovingly, salmon-roe was gently laid atop a lemon half, sea urchin spread upon a cucumber disk, and garnishes were crafted by the order, not taken from a water bath. The homemade wasabi, with finely minced horse radish, gave each melt-in-your-mouth piece just the right pop. The thought of the red snapper, with a slightly spiced skin, has since awoken my taste buds in the middle of the night.

The Black Cod, marinated in miso and grilled, while not unfamiliar in Japanese cuisine, is hard to pass up. This generous portion of cod was more savory than many of its relatives. An abundance of crispy skin protected glistening and flaky fish.

We saved the famous bowl of Omen noodles for our last course. When the restaurant first opened, it was actually nameless; the ensuing fame of their omen udon is what eventually provided it. Omen noodles are pale, round noodles with significant nutritional value. At Omen, the diner is brought a bowl of broth, a bowl of udon noodles, sesame seeds, red pepper flakes, and traditional vegetables (daikon, spinach, sprouts). If you’re feeling overwhelmed, the server is happy to explain assembly guidelines. The result is hearty, well-seasoned, and slippery. The best part being that as the assembler, you can take some credit.

Omen
113 Thompson Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 925-8923
Cash or American Express Only

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Ed’s Lobster Bar

October 17th, 2007 · Comments Off on Ed’s Lobster Bar

[Food:2.5/5]

Just a week or two after Ed’s opened, we showed up with a party of six for dinner. One look inside revealed this was not the place for larger party dining. We left, vowing to return. Months passed, lawsuits were filed, and the notion of copyrighting recipes became a topic of conversation. And then finally, we had our meal at Ed’s. The restaurant is tiny and the majority of the seating resides at the long bar that takes up three-quarters of the narrow space (hence the name of the restaurant). Sitting at the bar would be ideal, but there were four of us and we found ourselves tucked into a table in the back. It was late on a Tuesday night and the diners thinned out as our meal progressed, but it was still a very, very tight fit. The restaurant is brightly lit and crisp. The paper placemat that doubles as the menu and the small packet of oyster crackers at every place setting are reminiscent of Cape Cod.

We ordered a sampling of oysters for the table along with the special appetizer of the day, a hot dip of crab, spinach, and artichoke. We had asked our server about the oysters and were a bit disappointed in his lack of knowledge, or maybe just an inability to truly articulate the differences between the few types they were offering that night. The oysters took an incredibly long time to arrive at the table. It was far from a busy night, and having not received any bread for the table (apparently you have to ask for it specifically), we hungrily nibbled on our crackers. The oysters finally arrived; their taste of ocean refreshing. The dip arrived shortly after and was a definite crowd pleaser. We all commented at the tremendous amount of crab, the large portion, and the pleasing consistency. More often than not, the artichoke and spinach play larger roles and the crab becomes an afterthought. The dip was served with toast points; a nice and subtle touch.

For our main dishes, none of us ventured out of the lobster section of the menu. We ended up with two lobster rolls, a lobster pot pie, and the lobster salad. Despite an excellent piece of lobster, the salad was ordinary. I’ve had many a delicious lobster salad, and this is not one worth remembering. The lobster rolls were excellent. A hefty pile of succulent and sweet lobster was full of flavor. The lobster stands on its’ own and Ed is wise not to over-dress it. Ed’s pickles were outstanding and I have since thought about returning to buy a jar or two. The French fries were good, but there are far better in this city.  The lobster pot pie had all the makings of star dish, but fell short. The bisque had a great balance of tastes: seafood, salt and cream. The vegetables, mushrooms, string beans, and potatoes were tender, but not mushy. When the dish was placed in front of me I thought the puff pastry looked a bit small, but it ended up being just the right size; I never added a single oyster cracker. The problem lay in the lobster. The pieces were a bit over-cooked, making me think that the temperature of the bisque was not accounted for in the cooking process. In addition, the lobster pieces were a bit too large, making it very difficult to eat the dish with a spoon. I ended up having to take out the pieces of lobster, cut them, and place them back in the bisque. The flavors were great, but the execution and presentation had some flaws.

With Rich to Riches around the corner, it was too easy to turn down the blueberry crumble.

If you’re ever craving a lobster roll, and a trip to Cape Cod is not in the near future, Ed’s is a solid choice. 

Ed’s Lobster Bar
www.lobsterbarnyc.com
222 Lafayette Street
New York, NY 10012
(212) 343-3236

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Craft

October 15th, 2007 · Comments Off on Craft

[Food:4/5]

The interior of Tom Colicchio’s Craft is a reflection of the food: simple, elegant, inviting, and stylish. Some diners have complained that the “create your own” meal format is overwhelming and requires too much thought. Others have embraced the invitation to “craft” their ideal meal. I happily fell into the latter category.

Divided into First Courses, Main Courses, and Side Dishes, at a first glance the menu appears straight forward. Upon further examination, however, one finds multiple sub-categories and making choices quickly becomes difficult. The table was silent as we carefully perused the menus. Our server made an appearance (her first of many that night) and was extremely helpful and patient under our barrage of questions. When we hemmed and hawed over what mushroom dish to order, she offered up a mixture of multiple varieties. (Note to Tom: put that option on the menu!) Maximizing the number of dishes one orders is key to an optimal experience at Craft. While a table for two will certainly enjoy their meal, this dining destination is best experienced by larger groups who can take greater advantage of the vast menu. One should also note that although the main entrees are listed with vegetables as their accompaniments, these are a bit more than a garnish and you’ll end up ordering starches and vegetables separately. This format can put a larger dent in your wallet than you might have been expecting. It all seems to add up very quickly.

There were a couple of seemingly small details that left me impressed. In addition to the “make your own” aspect of Craft, it is also a “family-style” restaurant where all dishes are meant to be shared. Though there are many restaurants that serve food this way, Craft is one of the only ones I have dined at with tables that are proportional in size to accomodate the number of dishes that eventually make their way to the table. So often, candles must to be moved, plates must be shifted, and water glasses must be re-positioned to precarious spots just inches away from elbows, all to make room when food meant to be shared is placed in the center of the table has nowhere to go. Whether it is intelligent design, or a bit of luck, the large (and beautiful) wooden tables at Craft are perfect for accommodating many a dish. Another ingenuity is the handing out of “food checks” should you decide to take home any leftovers. Instead of an ugly plastic or brown paper bag being placed on the table before you have even ordered dessert (yes, that very same bag you often move for aesthetics and then leave behind), your server instead, presents you with a plastic card with a number on it that enables you to pick up your leftovers as you exit the premises. I’m still trying to figure out why this is not employed at more restaurants.

To start, a salad of artichokes and malvarosa cheese was flavorful and well-balanced. The mache and pear salad was a showcase of Colicchio’s commitment to fresh ingredients. The duck foie gras was prepared flawlessly with a creamy center and caramelized exterior. The addition of fig was a unique and delightful accompaniment. The most interesting dish was a chanterelle and peekytoe crab ragoût, which includes a slow cooked, and then flash fried egg. (Hint: if you can’t find the dish, check under the Farm Egg section of the Starter Dishes.) The mushrooms were packed with so much flavor that they overshadowed the taste of the crab, though the crab did act as a creamy adhesive, gluing slices of mushrooms to one another. The slow cooked, then fried egg, is a perennial favorite of mine and it served the dish well.

For entrees, we opted for the organic chicken, short ribs, and guinea hen. We were so enamored with the Side Dishes portion of the menu that we skipped a fourth entrée in lieu of starches and vegetables.  The organic chicken is a menu staple these days, but something made us think Colicchio would do it better than most. It was moist and well-seasoned, but paled in comparison to the much more flavorful guinea hen. The guinea hen arrived with dark meat still on the bone and white meat sliced into pieces. White meat, especially when sliced, can be dry and flavorless, though these morsels suffered from no such fate. The braised short ribs were presented in a small crock scattered with root vegetables. The beef was tender, flavorful and moist. Every dish proved that simple can be wonderful and that Colicchio knows what he is doing.

Assorted mushrooms, brussel sprouts, butternut squash, cauliflower, potato gratin, and risotto rounded out the meal. The vegetables outshined the starches. The cauliflower, often boring, had all the right flavors and consistency. The butternut squash was so smooth and rich that while I’d love to pay homage to the raw vegetable, there was certainly no shortage of cream. I’ve yet to meet a brussel sprout I don’t like, and these were no exception.  We found the gratin a bit salty, but the risotto had a nice balance of flavors, including corn and bacon.  One could make a meal of these sides and not leave disappointed.

The dessert menu arrived and we sighed with exhaustion at the prospect of more choices.  We gathered ourselves and pressed on, ordering one dish from the Classic Craft Combinations section and one from the Make Your Own section. The Brioche Pain Perdu, similar to bread pudding, was the table favorite and it disappeared quickly.  Good dark chocolate was the centerpiece of the chocolate tart and albeit a bit slower than the brioche, it disappeared as well.

After a strong couple of years, there have been rumblings that Craft has lost a step. This being my first visit, I can’t draw a comparison. But, I can say, I would welcome any opportunity to return.

Craft
www.craftrestaurant.com
43 East 19th Street
New York, NY 10003
(212) 780-0880

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Buddakan

October 13th, 2007 · Comments Off on Buddakan

[Food:3/5]

While I had heard a few fairly good reviews of the food at Buddakan, what I kept hearing about was the “scene”. The combination of the two made me curious enough to make a Friday night dinner reservation for four. Buddakan can seat about 350 people at once and a staff member told me the kitchen would put out 800 meals on that Friday night. The numbers are startling, as is the interior. This gargantuan space was once a factory, now home to a large bar area, an open air downstairs with communal tables and looming chandeliers, in addition to standard tables situated on the same floor as the bar. We sipped on drinks in the uber cool bar before being seated, and it certainly lived up to its scene reputation: low lights, dark furniture, and lots of chic people.

The dining area in which we were seated was much more brightly lit than the bar, and to my surprise, not incredibly loud. The four of us easily carried on a conversation. Our server was attentive, helpful, friendly, and patient. Though the restaurant did feel a bit like a factory, we never felt rushed. In general, the food tasted good. Asian fusion cuisine is so popular these days that if you’re not reinventing the wheel the dishes taste a bit too familiar and with relatively high price tags attached to the dishes at Buddakan, you can easily find similar dishes for signficantly less money.  

Our edamame dumplings, crispy calamari salad, and beef lettuce cups arrived quickly after we had placed our order. The dumplings were light and the pureed edamame centers were smooth and flavorful. We were impressed with the size of the calamari salad which arrived on a beautiful, black lacquer, oblong platter. The calamari was tender and even though it had been fried and then dressed, it still retained a crunchy exterior.  The batter was light and despite the use of a fryer, the dish didn’t come across as heavy. For the lettuce cups, four, small, yet beautifully seared pieces of beef arrive with lettuce leaves for wrapping. Dishes with lettuce cups often involve a pile of overly greasy, ground meat that you spoon into a leaf and eat quickly before the juices drip from the leaf and soak the plate below. Buddakan has found a much more refined way to present this dish and it was a welcomed surprise. 

We opted for a family style meal ordering sizzling short ribs, whole peking duck, and black cod as our main dishes. The short ribs had a nice smoky flavor but lacked the tenderness of truly slow-cooked meat. The beef just didn’t have the fall apart, melt in your mouth consistency. The accompaniment of mushroom chow fun noodles was very good. The peking duck also had good flavor, but was a bit dry and over cooked. The skin was not very crispy, a must when executing this dish to its fullest potential. The number of accompanying silver-dollar sized pancakes were plentiful. The black cod, though not ground-breaking, was very well prepared and had all the right textures of flakiness with a slightly charred glaze.

Our peanut butter chocolate dessert was decadent and well-balanced, with both flavors making an appearance in every bite.

While I will not be running back for another meal, I would not hesitate to return to the bar for a drink and some New York City people watching.  

Buddakan
http://www.buddakannyc.com/
75 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
(212) 989-6689

Comments Off on BuddakanNeighborhood: Meat Packing

Kittichai

October 9th, 2007 · Comments Off on Kittichai

[Food:3/5]

In the few steps between the entrance and host’s station at Kittichai, the serene surroundings magically enter your bloodstream and transport you to a faraway place. For many, there is a stigma attached to “hotel dining,” which perhaps played a role in the over-the-top design at Kittichai, which sits on the first floor of 60 Thompson. The experienced business and culinary team behind Kittichai spared no expense on décor and despite some ploys which feel a bit forced (including wait staff dressed in traditional Thai garb) one happily sinks into the peaceful atmosphere. While one can dine under outdoor lamps and watch the bellmen open doors of the town car parade, the main dining room at the back, devoid of any windows, will instantly make you forget you’re in SoHo, let alone a hotel. A huge pond with floating lilies and votive candles is the centerpiece of the main dining room and one cannot deny its beauty or opulence.  

The well-sized pieces of seabass that are tempura battered and fried are a crispy and light starter. There were few signs of oil and the flaky fish emerged from the fryer with all flavor intact. The accompanying chili-tamarind dipping sauce had us all double dipping. The banana blossom and artichoke salad, which looked intriguing on the menu, not only looked beautiful in presentation, but tasted wonderful as well. Blossom leaves are filled with finely cut pieces of artichoke and dressed with cashew nuts and chili jam. It was a hearty and flavorful vegetarian dish.

The green curry for the wok-braised vegetables was one of the better I have had in New York. A good balance of curry and coconut lent just the right amount of flavor to tender vegetables. The duck breast and leg were dry and the skin lacked crispiness. The spice level of the tamarind sauce overpowered the tamarind flavor, making the entire dish a disappointment. The chili-smoked hanger steak, however, was cooked a perfect medium rare and showcased flavors of ginger and lemongrass. Served atop hot and flavorful basil, the dish was a highlight. The pineapple fried rice with Chinese sausage arrived festively, in a whole, hollowed out pineapple. When you secured a bite that included sausage and the yellow, sticky rice, it was an ideal partnership of sweet and salty. However, there wasn’t quite enough sausage in the dish, leaving most bites without any contrast.  

For dessert, the banana spring rolls were, similar to the tempura starter, executed well. Though fried, there were no hints of oil and the burnt honey flavored ice cream cut dish well.

Kittichai is a beautiful restaurant filled with beautiful people. While nothing about the meal was outstanding, there was enough about the experience to bring me back. I’d also seriously recommend a drink in the Thom Bar or on the rooftop (only open during the warm months) before or after your meal. The special cocktail list does not disappoint with inventive and flavorful concoctions. Once you get sucked in, you’ll welcome any reason to stay longer in this Thompson Street oasis.

Kittichai
www.kittichairestaurant.com
60 Thompson Street
New York, NY 10013
(212) 219-2000

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Extra Virgin

October 7th, 2007 · Comments Off on Extra Virgin

[Food:3/5]

It was a Saturday night and while excited that my plans included dinner at Extra Virgin in the West Village, I was a bit apprehensive of just how long we’d wait for a table at this hot spot that does not take reservations. At eight o’clock we were told the wait would be about 35 minutes and by quarter to nine we were seated at our table. Having a drink at the bar before dinner felt like part of the experience and with the right company, you won’t even notice the wait. During the warmer months Extra Virgin does have outdoor seating, but these tables are the most coveted and your wait time (and pre-dinner bar tab) will be significantly increased should you wait for one.

Michele Gaton and Joey Fortunato deserve a lot of credit and compliments for what they have accomplished at Extra Virgin. Without boastfulness or show, they have nailed so many aspects of a great restaurant. Extra Virgin has that warm, casual air of a neighborhood place, but enough distinctions to make it a destination regardless of where you live in Manhattan. The Mediterranean inspired menu features innovative dishes born from fresh ingredients. Portion sizes are generous and the price points are remarkably reasonable, if not amazingly so. Starters don’t exceed $12 and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a main dish over $19. We rubbed our eyes in disbelief when we perused the menu and again when we paid the bill.  

The namesake is derived from an international line-up of olive oils that are poured bread-side at your table.  The charming atmosphere of exposed brick walls, mirrors, and columns makes this incredibly narrow space inviting. Tables are pushed very close together, but the lively noise level and dim lighting allows for table conversation that isn’t self-conscious. Service was very good and food arrived very quickly. So quickly, in fact, that I was happy we had initially lingered over our menus and delayed ordering.

A heaping pile of baby arugula glistened with small pieces of tomatoes, onions, cucumbers and avocado. Served with grilled bread and a light dressing, the extra virgin salad was a simple and light starter. The roasted artichoke parmesan, served with a poached egg, pancetta, and a hollandaise dressing was inventive and decadent, without being too heavy. The artichoke, cut in half and grilled, was sweet and tender. The pancetta added just the right amount of salt while the hollandaise dressing was lighter than I imagined (in a good way) and added just the right amount of creaminess.

I’m never drawn to seared tuna steak on menus; for me, tuna is best served either raw at the sushi bar or in salad form between two pieces of bread. But something about Fortunato’s tuna called to me, and after my first bite I contemplated abandoning my tuna mantra all together. The tuna was seasoned and grilled perfectly. Every bite cut like butter and melted in my mouth. The accompanying whipped potatoes, however, could have been hotter and lacked sufficient cream and flavor. The halibut simply grilled was presented with tomatoes, spinach and olive oil (extra virgin, of course) and was also well executed. The fresh fish shined with just the right amount of seasoning. Both fish dishes were simple, though they never came across as uninspired.

The savory and sweet tart apple, served with sour cream ice cream, was the perfect ending note to our meal.

As we made our way to the street, maneuvering through patrons still waiting for an outdoor table, I began to plot just how soon I would be able to return.

Extra Virgin
www.extravirginrestaurant.com
259 West 4th Street
New York, NY 10014
(212) 691-9359

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Il Giglio

September 29th, 2007 · 1 Comment

[Food:3/5]

Since 1989, Il Giglio has been providing stellar Northern Italian fare to in-the-know New Yorkers. Tucked away on a quiet stretch of Warren Street in TriBeCa, it is not likely a place you would stumble across, but it is worth seeking out. The green awning on the restaurant’s façade looks to be the original signage and provides apt hints of the interior’s décor. Other than a tiered display of antipasti in the entry way, the white-washed and windowless walls only house a few pieces of scattered art.

Time and again, the service here is some of the best I’ve experienced in the city. Expert wait staff buzz about the dining room, moving quickly, but never appearing harried. Every request is granted with astounding speed and whether you’d like a faster meal, or you’d like to linger over your cappuccino, your needs will be met. The menu at Il Giglio might look unimpressive, but be sure to listen closely when the server stands tableside to recite a list of specials. Most of these are not of the daily kind, but rather dishes that are always available, and ones that most returning customers, crave.

The moment you’re seated, waiters deluge your table with free antipasti treats: parmesan chunks, salami, tomato bruschetta, and zucchini slices. While all entertain your taste buds while you contemplate your order, the zucchini deserves full attention of mind and body. The slender discs are fried, cooled, and then delivered dripping in olive oil. They are addictive, and yes, you can ask for another helping.

The Caesar, Endive, and Mixed Greens are all fresh salads that promise to leave room for your entrée. Il Giglio will happily compile a colorful and varied ensemble of mixed antipasti, for as few as one diner. The special pasta starter, featuring two different pastas presented side-by-side, is the outright winner. Stuffed ravioli pillows and ribbons of papperdelle, both homemade, are the usual components.

Breadcrumbs adhere to a juicy rack of lamb with the help of Dijon mustard while a deep Barolo wine sauce pools under the bones. Lightly breaded and fried veal, topped with sage and prosciutto make for a delectable Saltimbocca Alla Fiorentina. The saltimbocca trumped the somewhat bland Scaloppine Di Vitello Pizzaiola, which lacked texture and flair. The Langostines, however, conquer all. Luscious and sweet meat can be plucked from these small lobster shells with ease. A preparation of garlic, herbs and white wine along with the diner’s choice of risotto, pasta, or rice allows the crustacean to shine.

For a large party, the assorted dessert plate is ideal. Multiple forks can simultaneously access slices of ricotta cheesecake, chocolate mousse cake, tiramisu, and strawberries with Zabaglione. If you’re not in an appropriately sized group to descend on such a platter, the tiramisu and zabaglione are strong standouts.

Il Giglio
www.ilgigliorestaurant.com
81 Warren Street
New York, NY 10007
(212) 571-5555

→ 1 CommentNeighborhood: TriBeCa